If the stain has the same exact chemistry will it come off dark glass just as easy or hard as clear or low e coated? Absolutely not. How do I know this with such unwavering certainty? Simply put because I have a building that has both dark glass and windows with a low e surface. This building is covered with mineral deposits from the same exact water source. So the stains are identical. When trying to remove the stains by what I call the "hand test" using a simple compound based on a microcrystalline silica, I was able to easily remove the spots/stains from the low e pyrolytic surface, but not the dark tinted glass. The stains on the dark glass would not budge at all by hand. When using a machine it became possible to remove them but not without much effort. From other testing on buildings that had both clear glass and dark glass I know that stains on dark glass are much more difficult to remove then stains on clear glass. Although stains on low e coated windows are the easiest to remove of all. So it goes in this order from the most difficult to remove to the least difficult to remove;...dark glass, clear glass, and low e coated glass.
I have created my first beta SRC pad based on an optical microcrystalline silica. I made it for light stains on clear and low e surfaces. Not for dark tinted glass. Even the "lightest" stains on dark glass can be exceptionally difficult to remove. I am guessing this has something to do with the possibility that the surface of dark glass goes through a reaction with the water and literally breaks down in solution. Through some rather simple testing I was able to prove that water spots are able to etch dark glass surfaces removing some of the glass. This leaves a transparent/clear "imprint" of each spot on the surface. Such an anomaly appears not to happen on clear glass or low e pyrolytic surfaces. Although it has been conjectured that "pinholes" can form on low e pyrolytic coatings when an excessive amount of mineral deposits are allowed to develop on this type of window and remain for some time. Either way stains should never be allowed to form on windows and remain. Especially on windows with dark glass owing to the amount of excessive labor that is necessary to effectively remove them.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
henrygroverjr@gmail.com
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Monday, August 27, 2018
Saturday, August 25, 2018
Avoid Lawsuits with Scratch Testing!
What scratches and when?
This is usually a total crap shoot. A throw of the dice. We might win or we might lose. Did you know there is a way to dramatically increase the odds in our favor? It involves a very simple test that almost no window cleaner has ever performed. Let me explain.
Testing Conditions.
I have developed many very simple tests over the years that anyone can do. This one involves the use of a one by one foot square mirror. I choose mirror plate because it is very easy to get. Also mirror shows up the slightest blemish. At times I will take the "test plate" into a totally dark room and shine a flashlight at the surface at a 45 degree angle. Then look straight down the beam of light. This shows up every imperfection.
Tools, compounds, and machines.
So I take a brand new mirror and polish the entire surface with a cerium oxide (optical quality). It should look perfectly fine without any imperfections. The best way to do this is with a rectangular piece of soft felt glued to the based of a random oscillating buffer of about 10,000 opms. That is oscillations per minute.
You will know that you have set up the surface correctly because when you rinse it under the tap pure water it will sheet evenly over the entire plate. It will be so hydrophylic (water loving) that it will appear to be dry. Now squeegee off the water so it is dry. You will notice that the surface is now quite rough if you pass a dry fingertip across it.
What surfaces are way easy to scratch?
Rough surfaces are extremely easy to scratch. Items that would hardly ever scratch a smooth plate of glass will absolutely scratch a rough surface. This test plate is great for testing metal wool, synthetic wool, and many other things. While it is not absolutely fool proof, it will help out tremendously at revealing what items are very prone to scratching.
Adding Glass Etchants to the Test.
Another additional feature of this test involves the use of hydrofluoric or sulfuric acid. Sulfuric is easy to get from an auto parts store because it is battery acid. So very dangerous. Hydrofluoric can be obtained by purchasing so called glass restoration products based on a little over 1% HF. One product called Crystal Clear 550 has this chemical. Again it is a very dangerous chemical so be very careful I have posted some very educational videos in this blog. You can search the blog with the search bar. When testing I will try to scratch and area. Then treat only half that area with either acid. HF works best. Take the test plate into a very dark room and look at the area that was tested with a bright flashlight. The acid will have magnified any blemishes 25 times over making them very visible. You will also be able to compare all three surfaces. The roughened surface untouched. The roughened surface tested with the product in question. Also the roughened surface tested with both the product in question and the acid applied afterward to magnify and blemishes.
Minimizing the Likelihood of a Lawsuit.
If you know what most likely is going to scratch and what most likely is not going to scratch you are most like going to be able to avert any lawsuits. This is indeed our goal as many times we are faced with removing various things such as construction debris but do not want to do damage to the surface. Especially if it is brand new glass. Being an older house no one seems to care that much. But brand new homes always come under the responsibility of whoever is the very first one to clean them.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
henrygroverjr@gmail.com
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Saturday, August 18, 2018
Be a SRC Beta Tester !
I am looking for some assistance in developing a line of Slow Release Coated Pads. Or SRC Pads. They can be used with any commercial system out there. My Hard Water, Glass Renu;… anything! No more messy slurries and compounds. Save time, and money. Remove stains, convert glass to hydrophylic, activate glass surfaces to receive hydrophobic sealants, and use for low e coated glass. Below is a picture of a two inch pad. The base is hard felt with a crack and peal adhesive back. The top has been coated with a slow release formula. Which gradually releases the particles slowly as the hard polymer carrier softens and dissolves in pure water. Not my imagination guys. I have done this. Will be working on videos soon. There will be an entire line of these pads. Email me with any questions. henrygroverjr@gmail.com
There is no cost for anything I might send to you for testing. I just need some people to do testing. I need to start a product development/sales business for my old age. But need to keep it very small, highly specialized, and very personal.
If you want to keep up on the Beta Testing of the SRC Pads and other technologies just type your address in the bar at the top right, "Follow by Email". Each post will then come directly in your inbox.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
Wednesday, August 15, 2018
Simplifying Stain Removal
Stain Removal can be a rather messy affair. The best "one step" polishing compound or slurry is based on cerium oxide. This is either a thick compound or a water slurry. In either case it is very difficult to apply. It is also very difficult to use without spraying compound all over the other windows, or the window frame. Usually so much of it is used that when cleaning the window much of it will drip down onto the concrete or other sills or exterior facade. This can discolor the exterior wall directly underneath each window.
Another problem has to do with the expense of the compound. Most people have chosen to use cerium oxide powder which has dramatically increased in cost over the last several years. It becomes very expensive when it is over used. You see in reality it doesn't take very much of this at all to clear most stains.
Timing is another concern. It takes a lot of time to keep on applying the compound/slurry to the glass as you are polishing. Then if you use too much it can take a lot of time to clean up after.
With a slow release pad all of these problems are eliminated! I can coat any pad that you are already using with a custom blended slow release plastic coating. It goes on like a thick paint and then hardens to a solid coating. Which coating can be loaded with any microcrystalline polishing powder. So we can use an optical silica, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide, aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, or even diamond. Or we can precisely blend any of these powders.
To use a slow release pad you first must clean the window. Then just apply a clean soapy water and begin polishing. After about thirty seconds the hard plastic coating will begin to dissolve in the water releasing just the right amount of microcrystalline powder. Once done all you need to do is soap up the window and squeegee it off. Wiping up the bottom edge. There will be very little residue to wipe. Since you are using only a very little amount of powder and only have to apply water, There is very little mess if any. Also the expense is dramatically minimized. Further the time to clear the window is likewise reduced. All of this greatly simplifies the job. It likewise reduces the total expense.
There is even the option of adding acrylic or walnut powders to the coating for working on coated glass. It is necessary to test whatever coating you are working on to determine whether or not a custom slow release pad will cause scratches. This could be a very practical way to remove residue such as concrete sealer/water proofing from low e coated glass. There are water miscible solvents available that will soften concrete sealers, silicone, paint, and wood stain. These will also dissolve the plastic coating of a slow release pad thereby releasing the acrylic or walnut shell powder to physically rub off the paint or whatever else which has already been softened. Then all you have to do is agitate with soapy water and squeegee it off.
I am now working on a series of videos to demonstrate exactly how each of these custom pads work. Again it should be emphasized that any polishing pad can be coated with a slow release plastic. So if you have a felt pad that has a crack and peal backing to stick on a wheel we can coat this. Or if you have a soft pad that has a velcro backing we can also coat the front of this. There are many different applications.
Here is an old video I made several years ago using a special wheel I created and a hard felt ring/pad with a slow release cerium oxide coating. The wheel wobbles because it has a universal joint built in between the shaft and the polishing wheel. This keeps it flat on the glass all the time which makes the system very easy to work with! But. Any wheel, machine, or stain removal system can be used. All that needs to be done is to coat the pad.
If you are interested in exploring any of these ideas just send an email to henrygroverjr@gmail.com
To receive these posts in your inbox just type your address in the box at the top right "Follow by Email".
Another problem has to do with the expense of the compound. Most people have chosen to use cerium oxide powder which has dramatically increased in cost over the last several years. It becomes very expensive when it is over used. You see in reality it doesn't take very much of this at all to clear most stains.
Timing is another concern. It takes a lot of time to keep on applying the compound/slurry to the glass as you are polishing. Then if you use too much it can take a lot of time to clean up after.
With a slow release pad all of these problems are eliminated! I can coat any pad that you are already using with a custom blended slow release plastic coating. It goes on like a thick paint and then hardens to a solid coating. Which coating can be loaded with any microcrystalline polishing powder. So we can use an optical silica, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide, aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, or even diamond. Or we can precisely blend any of these powders.
To use a slow release pad you first must clean the window. Then just apply a clean soapy water and begin polishing. After about thirty seconds the hard plastic coating will begin to dissolve in the water releasing just the right amount of microcrystalline powder. Once done all you need to do is soap up the window and squeegee it off. Wiping up the bottom edge. There will be very little residue to wipe. Since you are using only a very little amount of powder and only have to apply water, There is very little mess if any. Also the expense is dramatically minimized. Further the time to clear the window is likewise reduced. All of this greatly simplifies the job. It likewise reduces the total expense.
There is even the option of adding acrylic or walnut powders to the coating for working on coated glass. It is necessary to test whatever coating you are working on to determine whether or not a custom slow release pad will cause scratches. This could be a very practical way to remove residue such as concrete sealer/water proofing from low e coated glass. There are water miscible solvents available that will soften concrete sealers, silicone, paint, and wood stain. These will also dissolve the plastic coating of a slow release pad thereby releasing the acrylic or walnut shell powder to physically rub off the paint or whatever else which has already been softened. Then all you have to do is agitate with soapy water and squeegee it off.
I am now working on a series of videos to demonstrate exactly how each of these custom pads work. Again it should be emphasized that any polishing pad can be coated with a slow release plastic. So if you have a felt pad that has a crack and peal backing to stick on a wheel we can coat this. Or if you have a soft pad that has a velcro backing we can also coat the front of this. There are many different applications.
Here is an old video I made several years ago using a special wheel I created and a hard felt ring/pad with a slow release cerium oxide coating. The wheel wobbles because it has a universal joint built in between the shaft and the polishing wheel. This keeps it flat on the glass all the time which makes the system very easy to work with! But. Any wheel, machine, or stain removal system can be used. All that needs to be done is to coat the pad.
If you are interested in exploring any of these ideas just send an email to henrygroverjr@gmail.com
To receive these posts in your inbox just type your address in the box at the top right "Follow by Email".
Monday, August 13, 2018
Exposing Tech7
There has been much buzz over this rather simple looking tube. Many are claiming that it has the ability to change water on a molecular level. Actually changing the hydrogen bonding of water or the cohesive properties of the molecules and thereby changing the memory of water which is controlled by the identity of the micro-clusters. They claim that it can change the electrical conductivity of water and even change the surface tension like detergents do. Some believe that it uses cavitation to increase the cleaning power of water. Beyond these claims is the belief that it will extend the life of DI resin in a water fed purification tank. They go so far as to declare that high TDS water run through the Tech 7 tube will not spot glass so that DI/RO systems are not needed when working with a water fed pole. Just use tap water. Some say too that water run through a Tech 7 tube will run off glass faster than normal leaving very few spots. Are all these claims true, or are they just the productions of a wild imagination?
What exactly is a Tech 7 tube?
Lets start by asking what is inside of the tube? It is lined by another tube of copper which is covered with little nubs or indentations. Four lines of many of these little indents go from one end to the other. The outer tube is made of a hard plastic. Anyone can see this. To take the pictures below I shined an LED flashlight up the tube. You can just make out the little nubs as they reflect the light. The theory is that these nubs affect water by creating a vortex and reacting electrically. Also that the plastic outer tube somehow improves this effect by insulating the copper. So there are no chemicals or detergents used. All you need is the tube to make Tech 7 water.
What REALLY matters
The bottom line here is it really doesn't matter how it works. What matters most is does it work. I am sure many of you thought I was going to debate all of these claims which I listed at the beginning of this post. But not! If we can first prove beyond any doubt that the Tech 7 does indeed work, and show very plainly exactly what it does do;...then we can theorize after how it does it. So lets get to the testing.
Testing Tech 7 water for surface tension
The first test involves measuring the surface tension of water. Surface tension is caused by hydrogen bonding of individual water molecules and is otherwise known as cohesion. This is science. There are some very simple ways to see the surface tension of water. One is to count the number of water drops that can be put on top of a penny before the surface tension breaks and the accumulated water rolls off the coin. To do this test you must be very careful and hold the eye dropper straight up. Watch the size of the drops so they are exactly the same size. I was able to get as many as 33 drops on a penny before the surface tension broke. I then added a few drops of detergent to my large cup of test water. It became very apparent that the soap seriously changed the surface tension of the water. I was only able to get about 14 to 18 drops on the penny before the tension broke and the water rolled. Here is a short video of the experiment I am talking about.
Some say you can get up to 44 drops of water on a penny. I say that depends on the size of the drops coming from the eye dropper. The key to performing this test correctly is to use the same eye dropper for all of the fluids/mixtures you are testing. To test the Tech 7 to see if it changes the surface tension of water just hook up the Tech 7 tube to your water source. Collect some water in a clean cup. Now collect some water from the same exact water source in a second cup. Then start counting. How many drops of Tech 7 can you put on a penny before it rolls off ? Now using the same penny and the same eye dropper see how many drops of plain water you can put on the penny before the water rolls. Remember to use water from the same source. I did this experiment. The results I got were not definitive. I was not convinced that the Tech 7 had changed the surface tension of water. My advice to you is do the test for yourself and see what you discover.
Testing Tech 7 Water for Spotting
Does Tech 7 water cause less spotting from minerals? This is really important because it would mean window cleaners could as our friend Jack Sedore puts it, "tap spot free". Here is how to find out. Find a source of high TDS water. Check it with your meter so you know what it is. It might be 65, 125, 225, 325, or even higher. For the test it would be good to know what the silica content is. This requires another type of meter. Here is one that costs about fifty bux. Also here is the link for where to go to buy it.
Now put some of this water in a clean cup. Next hook up your Tech 7 tube to the same water source and run some into another clean cup. Next take a perfectly clean mirror plate and lie it down flat on a table in the hot sun. Put several drops of your Tech 7 water on one side, then put about the same number of drops of the other water which I call the control on the other side. Let all of the drops on both sides completely dry. Now compare the spots that were left. If the TDS or silica content of the water was high enough you should definitely get some spotting. Also if the Tech 7 tube has changed the minerals in some way it should be possible to see this. Some how. When you do this you might want to also see how easy it is to wipe off the spots once dry with a dry towel. If the spots left by the Tech 7 water are easier to wipe off that would also tell us there is a difference.
Testing Tech 7 Water for Electrical Conductivity
Once again take some water from a tap. Rate the TDS and the silica content. Put some straight from the tap into a clean cup. Then run some through a Tech 7 tube. Put that in a second cup. Now use an ohm meter and check the resistance and or the conductivity. These are opposites of the same thing. One is the inverse of the other. You can get a small battery powered meter from an electrical supply house. By the way your TDS meter for your water fed pole is nothing but an electrical ohm meter. Pure/distilled water does not conduct electricity. But water that has minerals/silicates in it does conduct electricity. This is a very simple test. Just look at the numbers. They should be different for the Tech 7 water. If you want to be absolutely sure just test a different source of water with a much higher or lower mineral content. A much higher or lower TDS rating. I am very curious about water that has a very low TDS reading but a rather high silica level. If the Tech 7 does in fact change the conductivity/resistance of hard water, is it more effective at changing silica water? This might be difficult to test using an ohm meter because silica does not promote conductance of electricity.
I am quite sure that we can come up with other tests for the Tech 7. I just want to emphasize it is absolutely necessary to use a "control". Make sure you do a side by side test. Also be as precise as possible. It is critical to the reliability of the results.
Looking straight down a Tech 7 tube
Look for the light reflecting off the little "nubs". There are four perfectly straight rows of them from one end of the tube to the other. The inside of the tube is made of copper. The outside of a hard plastic.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
henrygroverjr@gmail.com
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Wednesday, August 8, 2018
Cleaning Windows with Silphos A-100
Silphos A-100 is a silicone based superwetting anionic detergent. Dawn is an ordinary carbon based detergent blend based on two different anionic surfactants;...sodium laureth sulfate and sodium laurel sulfate. It also has not more than one percent sodium hydroxide (lye). Anionics are typically used in glass cleaning formulas because they carry a negative charge. Glass surfaces also have a negative charge. So an anionic cleaning solution tends to be repelled by glass and will not leave as much of a film as even a nonionic detergent such as an LAE or what is also known as a linear alcohol ethoxylate.
Silphos A-100 just like Dawn then does not leave hardly any film. It also is a fantastic superwetter. Which means that you only need to put a teaspoon in two gallons of water to get adequate glide and suds. In contrast you would have to use way more Dawn to get the same results. Of course Dawn is also way easier to get. Just go to the local supermarket and buy a small bottle. Over in the UK there are other products that are based on a very similar chemistry. Other parts of the world the same I am sure. But Silphos A-100 which is made and sold by www.siltech.com is only available in a five gallon pail or a fifty five gallon drum. The cost runs around 85 to 90 dollars per gallon. When you consider how incredibly little you would actually use in a bucket the total expense is very little.
After researching the four different surfactant families (which are the anionics, amphoterics, nonionics, and cationics) I discovered that Dawn was based on two anionics. Then I learned the basic reason why the anionics are likely so effective at cleaning glass. They also yield the most suds. Of course I did test out the other families and did determine that they leave a totally unacceptable film. Dawn really was the best. This is what tempted me to look for a silicone (silicon based) anionic detergent. I wanted to see if I would get "similar" results to Dawn.
I actually did. I have a rather large store route. And I have a couple of stores that are rather problematic. Meaning if any window will streak it would be those stores. So I use them for testing. It was summer time, rather hot, and the glass was dark. I discovered as long as I used plenty of water there was no streaking with Silphos A-100. But if the water dried too quickly streaking indeed became a problem. Dawn on the other hand did not cause this problem. The bottom line here is under extreme conditions when the glass is too hot Silphos A-100 will streak but with litle to no film. Dawn will actually do this too but hardly ever.
Many years ago window cleaners used to use TSP (trisodium phosphate). Which creates fantastic glide. No suds. Although it does cause bleed out from the edges of the window. Especially on humid days. And will cause some streaking in the hot sun which leaves white lines. These can be annoying but do wipe right off dry. TSP also leaves no film. So no film but some streaking. Very interesting. Very similar to Silphos A-100. Little to no film but streaking under extreme hot sunny conditions.
The ultimate bottom line of course is we should use what we want to use. Whatever works best for us. I have experimented with SO many different commercial and pure detergents over the years. I mean so many. Then finally it has come down to Dawn. Sometimes with a little clear ammonia for extra glide. I like the lemon scented ammonia.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
Glass Smart Consulting
henrygroverjr@gmail.com
To receive these posts directly in your inbox just type your address in the box at the top right, "Follow by Email".
Silphos A-100 just like Dawn then does not leave hardly any film. It also is a fantastic superwetter. Which means that you only need to put a teaspoon in two gallons of water to get adequate glide and suds. In contrast you would have to use way more Dawn to get the same results. Of course Dawn is also way easier to get. Just go to the local supermarket and buy a small bottle. Over in the UK there are other products that are based on a very similar chemistry. Other parts of the world the same I am sure. But Silphos A-100 which is made and sold by www.siltech.com is only available in a five gallon pail or a fifty five gallon drum. The cost runs around 85 to 90 dollars per gallon. When you consider how incredibly little you would actually use in a bucket the total expense is very little.
After researching the four different surfactant families (which are the anionics, amphoterics, nonionics, and cationics) I discovered that Dawn was based on two anionics. Then I learned the basic reason why the anionics are likely so effective at cleaning glass. They also yield the most suds. Of course I did test out the other families and did determine that they leave a totally unacceptable film. Dawn really was the best. This is what tempted me to look for a silicone (silicon based) anionic detergent. I wanted to see if I would get "similar" results to Dawn.
I actually did. I have a rather large store route. And I have a couple of stores that are rather problematic. Meaning if any window will streak it would be those stores. So I use them for testing. It was summer time, rather hot, and the glass was dark. I discovered as long as I used plenty of water there was no streaking with Silphos A-100. But if the water dried too quickly streaking indeed became a problem. Dawn on the other hand did not cause this problem. The bottom line here is under extreme conditions when the glass is too hot Silphos A-100 will streak but with litle to no film. Dawn will actually do this too but hardly ever.
Many years ago window cleaners used to use TSP (trisodium phosphate). Which creates fantastic glide. No suds. Although it does cause bleed out from the edges of the window. Especially on humid days. And will cause some streaking in the hot sun which leaves white lines. These can be annoying but do wipe right off dry. TSP also leaves no film. So no film but some streaking. Very interesting. Very similar to Silphos A-100. Little to no film but streaking under extreme hot sunny conditions.
The ultimate bottom line of course is we should use what we want to use. Whatever works best for us. I have experimented with SO many different commercial and pure detergents over the years. I mean so many. Then finally it has come down to Dawn. Sometimes with a little clear ammonia for extra glide. I like the lemon scented ammonia.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
Glass Smart Consulting
henrygroverjr@gmail.com
To receive these posts directly in your inbox just type your address in the box at the top right, "Follow by Email".
Thursday, August 2, 2018
Double or Triple Your Profits as a Window Inspector
Think about it friends;...how much valuable information do you give away for free when you clean someones windows? I do it myself all the time. Most people for example have no clue what "negative deflection" is. They have no clue that the argon gas in units made by Anderson and other window manufacturers can gradually leak out over the years causing the two plates of the insulating glass unit to become concave. Further that in time if the glass is scratched and the barometric pressure is just right;...these windows can implode. It sounds just like a gun. I had a good friend that experienced this while he was cleaning windows on a residential. Customers also don't know how easy it is for us to check this condition. When you do that for each window you clean and write it down, it becomes an inspection service. Which the customer should rightfully pay for.
Another inspection service would be to determine exactly what the coefficient of friction is for the surface of each window you clean. As the Glass Committee through the Penn State Materials Lab has proven, the "roughness" of glass surfaces determines how easy they can be scratched. Either through the natural weathering process of the first surface of monolythic or double plate glass, or restoration through polishing, or the use of acids that invisibly etch, once the surface becomes rough it will scratch with incredible ease.
Then yet another inspection service is to check the integrity of the insulating unit for water vapor or as we call it, "seal failure". Once the air tight seal loses it's integrity humidity enters. Usually this is invisible especially when it first begins. But as time goes on it gradually becomes visible as a foggy appearance shows up between the two plates. Which becomes worse and worse as time continues to pass. What most people do not know however is that when the fog first begins to develop it cannot be seen if the window is dirty. Scratches too by the way are usually invisible if the window is dirty. The best way to inspect for seal failure is to first clean the window and then apply cold to a small area of the IG Unit. The fog will form in between for everyone to see. There is another effect called gassing which occurs straight from the factory. It shows up as an even haze. Usually it is easy to see when compared to the window next to it. But only in the direct sun light and when the windows are perfectly clean. Fingerprints can be detected between the plates of an IG Unit also. But are usually dismissed or invisible if the window is dirty. When marketing your window cleaning/inspection services through real estate agents that distribute your newsletters directly to their buyers, the best thing to do is explain to the buyer that they should never buy a home with dirty windows. No one should. Rather they should have the windows of their prospective home professionally cleaned, and professionally inspected at the same time.
These are only a few different inspection services that a window cleaning company can offer. There are many others. Further did you know that there is a company that manufactures and sells high tech electronic devices for doing nothing but window inspections?
If you are interested in getting into this service please email me directly and we can talk about it. I am just beginning myself and am more than willing to discuss it further. If you charge ten bux to clean a window, you should also be charging another ten bux to perform a battery of inspections on that same window. Your prices for inspections should be based on the specific inspection done on each window. So lets say you charge three bux per IG Unit to test for seal failure and there are fifty windows or units. That comes to 150 bux. A professional inspection of all the windows in a home or business could actually cost up to two times the cost of having the windows cleaned. So your profits could realistically be tripled. In less time then it takes to clean the windows!
Remember the slogan, "Never Buy a Home With Dirty Windows!".
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
For more information email me at henrygroverjr@gmail.com
To receive these posts directly in your inbox just type your address in the box at the top right, "Follow by Email".
Another inspection service would be to determine exactly what the coefficient of friction is for the surface of each window you clean. As the Glass Committee through the Penn State Materials Lab has proven, the "roughness" of glass surfaces determines how easy they can be scratched. Either through the natural weathering process of the first surface of monolythic or double plate glass, or restoration through polishing, or the use of acids that invisibly etch, once the surface becomes rough it will scratch with incredible ease.
Then yet another inspection service is to check the integrity of the insulating unit for water vapor or as we call it, "seal failure". Once the air tight seal loses it's integrity humidity enters. Usually this is invisible especially when it first begins. But as time goes on it gradually becomes visible as a foggy appearance shows up between the two plates. Which becomes worse and worse as time continues to pass. What most people do not know however is that when the fog first begins to develop it cannot be seen if the window is dirty. Scratches too by the way are usually invisible if the window is dirty. The best way to inspect for seal failure is to first clean the window and then apply cold to a small area of the IG Unit. The fog will form in between for everyone to see. There is another effect called gassing which occurs straight from the factory. It shows up as an even haze. Usually it is easy to see when compared to the window next to it. But only in the direct sun light and when the windows are perfectly clean. Fingerprints can be detected between the plates of an IG Unit also. But are usually dismissed or invisible if the window is dirty. When marketing your window cleaning/inspection services through real estate agents that distribute your newsletters directly to their buyers, the best thing to do is explain to the buyer that they should never buy a home with dirty windows. No one should. Rather they should have the windows of their prospective home professionally cleaned, and professionally inspected at the same time.
These are only a few different inspection services that a window cleaning company can offer. There are many others. Further did you know that there is a company that manufactures and sells high tech electronic devices for doing nothing but window inspections?
If you are interested in getting into this service please email me directly and we can talk about it. I am just beginning myself and am more than willing to discuss it further. If you charge ten bux to clean a window, you should also be charging another ten bux to perform a battery of inspections on that same window. Your prices for inspections should be based on the specific inspection done on each window. So lets say you charge three bux per IG Unit to test for seal failure and there are fifty windows or units. That comes to 150 bux. A professional inspection of all the windows in a home or business could actually cost up to two times the cost of having the windows cleaned. So your profits could realistically be tripled. In less time then it takes to clean the windows!
Remember the slogan, "Never Buy a Home With Dirty Windows!".
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
For more information email me at henrygroverjr@gmail.com
To receive these posts directly in your inbox just type your address in the box at the top right, "Follow by Email".
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