The two terms hydrophylic and hydrophobic are purely arbitrary. They are only generalizations. NOT accurate definitions. The true scientific measure of how much a glass surface deflects or "beads" water is Contact Angle (CA). This varies greatly depending on the chemical sealant used and the coefficient of friction (CF) of the surface. If the surface has not been chemically treated so that it is chemically identical to any other glass surface that has not been chemically treated, then the greater the CF (the more rough it is) the less the CA will be. And hence the more it will hold onto and tend to "sheet" the rinse water from your pole. Put crudely;.. if you really rough up a window it will hold onto more water and not bead. It will "sheet" better. This is the reason why guys have been able to "make" hydrophylic glass with bronze wool.
It would be nice if we had a way to accurately measure the CA without buying a five hundred dollar piece of scientific equipment. However I think what is more important is to find a way to create the best surface for the WFP. Best for you. One that can be custom tailored to your personal liking. And then to simply and quickly test such a surface for uniformity and perfection. We do know that applying Rain-X or Aquapel is NOT the answer!
First we need to create a five micron surface with a five micron cerium oxide compound using the Wobble Wheel and a hard felt rad (ring/pad). Then test the uniformity and perfection with a cold fogger/mister. You can get one for as little as 25 bux. When you fog the surface it will create zillions of microscopic droplets of water. If the surface has not been perfectly microlapped you will see this in the pattern of micro-droplets. Which pattern should be totally smooth without any imperfections. Then you will want to hit the window with your WFP to see if you get the best sheeting action. The window will probably hold onto your rinse water too much. Five micron pure glass (no residue) surfaces will hold onto water with an iron grip. One micron surfaces are less water loving. They have a lower CF. You might try creating a perfect one micron surface. If you can create this superfinish test it for sheeting with your WFP. If this is a CA that is good for you then you're there! Such a pure glass surface would be the best way to go since there aren't any chemicals to wear off. You might even experiment on the same plate of glass by creating a one micron surface on one side and a five micron surface on the other side. Then put your WFP to it and see what the results are. If you still need a surface with a higher CA then you will need to go to a chemical.
Now we all know that Rain-X creates a CA which is way too high for WFP work. But did you know it is possible to reduce the CA created by Rain-X by cutting this product with isopropyl alcohol? Try it out on a surface that has been microlapped. Keep track of your percent of alcohol to product (Rain-X). Set up side by side tests using different percentages and see which one works out best with your pole. Next you will need to do an entire window and time yourself. Then you will have to sell it to yourself and your customer. Can you convert certain windows from windows that cannot be cleaned with a WFP to ones that now can be? Will it save you enough time and or will it save your customer enough money? There must be a monetary reason for doing this other than the satisfaction we get from a scientific experiment gone absolutely wonderful!
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
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