Unlocking the Secrets of Transforming Hydrophobic Glass to Hydrophylic.

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The true key to being able to use a WFP on windows without a resin bed or R/O system is hydrophylic glass.  This can be done three different ways.  First we can seal the glass with a hydrophylic coating or simply put chemically treat it.  Or we could inject a Super Soap into the feed line of a WFP to dramatically reduce the surface tension of whatever water we are using, even tap water.  Or as I am discussing in this post, we could microlap the glass with SKRUB.  This physically deep cleans the glass by removing all hydrocarbon groups and what is called the near surface.  The glass takes on its natural hydrophylic property which is actually enhanced because the micro-surface is now even more rough.  There is essentially more surface area of glass per square cm for water to cling to.


First Clip

Second Clip

The full length Video

To apply SKRUB I first wet the glass with any type of cleaning solution.  Then I put a few drops on the back of the flat hard felt pad.  I use an F1.  About 1/4 inch thick.  I have glued a piece of 1/4 inch masonite to the back of this Makita random oscillating sander.  It operates at about 10,000 OPMs.  Then I glue the felt to the Masonite.  Any other soft wood will do.  Pine is especially useful.  Now just go to it.  The SKRUB will instantly mix with the cleaning solution making a perfect slurry.  You can more easily control how much you use this way also.  Further this techniques will not throw your polishing slurry all over the room.  You will notice you can work right up to the edge of the glass without any mess.  When done just soap and squeegee off.  The glass wil be perfectly clean.  You can even feel the difference.  The polished side will be much more rough.

Now it takes not more than a minute per square foot to polish. Also it takes about 1/8 of an ounce of SKRUB to polish a square foot.  So an 8 ounce bottle of SKRUB will do about four large sliding glass doors.  Maybe more because SKRUB is a highly concentrated polishing compound.

The quality of the finished surface is quite high.  If you look at the two clips here again you will see how water completely sheets over the surface.  There is absolutely no beading.  This is what we need for WFP work.  The only drawback is the cost in money and time to set up the windows ahead.  It is a permanent treatment.  But if we can't get the customer to pay, and we are not going to be cleaning the windows frequently enough at a high enough profit, then it would not be worth the expense.  In which case one of the other two alternatives might be the better answer.  

Written by Henry Grover Jr.
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SKRUB Product Development Review

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The Product Development Review

SKRUB

SKRUB is a microcrystalline silica particle suspended in pure glycerin.  There isn’t any water added.  Also the microcrystalline silica particle is just the right size and purity such that it will not scratch glass when used by hand.  There is a chance of creating a haze of scratches if used with a machine. Even ultra pure optical grade white cerium oxide can create a scratch haze if used incorrectly with a machine.  I have seen people take dry cerium right out of the box with a rotary felt pad and rip into the glass with the edge of the polishing pad. This and other similar techniques can create a haze of scratches that sometimes are completely invisible until the sun shines directly on the window.  Which is the reason why I developed my Wobble Wheel.  When used in a rotary drill motor it will keep the circular pad completely flat on the glass at all times. 
When using SKRUB with a rotary drill I will first clean the window, then wet it again with a clean soapy solution.  The soapy water will mix with the SKRUB creating a polishing slurry on the glass as you go.  Next I will add about four to six drops of SKRUB to the felt pad.  Then just polish the glass keeping the pad always flat at all times.  NEVER work the glass with the pad turned on edge.  You can soap and squeegee as you go to see if the glass is cleared of stains.  When done just soap and squeegee.  Wipe the edges or at least the bottom edge.  By polishing this way you will use only as much compound as you need, and will reduce the amount of time needed for cleanup. 
SKRUB is also intended for use as an additive for your window cleaning solution.  It can be used at one ounce per gallon of window cleaning solution.  It doesn’t matter what commercial rinse you are using.  Whether that be GG4, Ecover, Dawn, Joy, or some other mix.  You can add enough to an entire bucket and clean the entire window with it.  But the more cost effective way is to have two applicators.  Then use a squirt bottle filled with your favorite solution with a very small amount of SKRUB added to it.  Adjust the concentration to the difficulty of the job.  Then just squirt enough on the applicator and SKRUB just that area of the window that you might have used a razor blade or 0000 steel wool on.  Squeegee to make sure the greasy prints are gone and you have the correct concentration. Next soap up the entire window with the solution in your bucket using the first applicator, and squeegee.  Choose a squirt bottle you can float in your bucket.  Or a smaller one you can fit in your pocket. 
Another application for SKRUB is screen stain.  I will make up a concentrated solution of SKRUB in a squirt bottle.  Then I will SKRUB a clean window that has “screen stain” on it.  This is the stain that develops from aluminum screens.  You can use a sponge, or 0000 steel wool.  Then soap and squeegee again. This is the most safe way to remove screen stain.  If you treat the surface with a sealant like Rain X, when the stain returns one year later, it will be much easier to remove using SKRUB. And the Rain X will usually remain.  If not just reseal.  You will know when you are breaking through the stain because the solution of cleaner and SKRUB will start to bead up.

Written by Henry Grover Jr.
henrygroverjr@gmail.com
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Spot Free WFP Window Cleaning without Resin Tanks or RO

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Eliminating resin tanks and RO units greatly reduces the expense and increases the efficiency of cleaning windows with a water fed pole.  Since we obviously will then be working with water that has a high TDS or a high silica content, the only way to accomplish this is to eliminate the water drop and hence the resulting hard water spot.  This can be accomplished in three different ways that I know of.  First it can be done by bringing the water tension of our cleaning/rinse solution down to 20 to 25 dynes per cm.  Water typically is around 72 dynes.  Second it can be done by coating the glass surface with a hydrophylic sealant. Third it can be done by physically removing all residue from glass.  Which involves "microtexturing" with a microcrystalline silica slurry, optical grade cerium oxide, or some other superabrasive based polishing agent.  I can also see the possibility of combining these different techniques for an optimum effect and the elimination of certain problems.  Such problems however must be addressed.

The first technique involves the use of what I have been calling a Super Soap in my posts on the Window Cleaning Resource forum.  These are typically super wetting surface active agents based on a silicon or fluorine chemistry.  I and others have been experimenting with a silicon based nonionic super wetting surfactant.  Under perfect conditions of high humidity and shade it will do precisely what the title of this post says. Although these conditions are not easy to meet.  This certain surfactant will also leave behind a surfactant residue that will easily turn white if the dry window is rubbed with anything. Once the rinse/cleaner dries the window is perfectly clear and the residue is invisible.  My thoughts are that this is happening because of the electrical charge of the surf.  So I am looking into other surfs now.  The main benefits of this technique is the simplicity of it.  All we do is add the surf to a water holding tank.  We can use any tap water.  Also we don't have to invest in resin tanks or RO systems.  Which I understand present unique problems to Window Cleaners that work in desert environments.

The second technique involves sealing the glass.  This might involve superabrasive cleaning and microtexturing to initially set up the glass for application of the hydrophylic sealant.  If so it will require much time. After the initial application it will be necessary to periodically renew such coatings.  Which can be done during the cleaning process.  That part will not require any additional time.  But it is still needed.  Because there isn't any sealant on the market that will last forever.  Another problem that is true for all three techniques is the build up of minerals on the glass.  They will not form spots.  But do coat the entire plate becoming concentrated at the bottom of the windows.  They are much easier to remove with mild superabrasive products from sealant surfaces.  This is because deposits are always easier to remove from a sealant rather than glass.  Also they will not be concentrated in the form of spots. In fact they should be completely invisible until they build up

over time.

The third technique involves physically polishing the glass.  It will become naturally hydrophylic.  No surfs or sealants will be needed to cause water to sheet over the entire window and drain off leaving no spots.  There are still drawbacks to this technique.  One involves the different conditions outside.  Such can change the purity of this new surface.  Causing it to loose its hydrophylic properties.  So it might be necessary to periodically polish.  The time involved might preclude using this technique.  Especially if it is a large building with many windows, and the owners only want a yearly maintenance cleaning.

My thoughts are to combine these techniques to come up with a system that will work for each individual building/job.  It all comes down to numbers.

Written by Henry Grover Jr.

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Abrasives and Window Cleaning

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Abrasives are absolutely critical to cleaning windows.  Few manufacturers have made a study of them however.  I have written several articles on the technology of abrasive particles. Take a look at this one web site.  http://abrasive-media.com/article.php?pid=25&cid=28 This company obviously is in China where Perry lives.  Their focus is on iron sand abrasives used in blasting.  If you read about the attention paid to the properties of the particles you will see how such controls the performance.

There is a great deal of difference in the purity of size, hardness, friability, shape, functionality, and chemistry of micro and nano particles.  All of these properties control how well they "cut" through the surface, how smooth that new surface will be, whether there are particles that stick together forming much larger particles (agglomerates) that will leave errant scratches, how efficient the slurry will be, and so many other properties.

But why are they important for window cleaning?  Well have you ever used a magic sponge from Mr. Clean?  If so you were working with an abrasive impregnated sponge.  Have you ever worked with a plastic scrub pad from 3M?  This is a type of plastic abrasive.  Most likely nylon.  Possibly impregnated with silica particles.  We will never know exactly what because 3M doesn't tell anyone anything.  What of steel wool?  Most of us use 0000 steel wool.  This is an abrasive.  Each extremely fine strand of wool is only 20 microns in diameter.  Further it has a peculiar shape which allows it to do its work.  According to this video they are razor sharp and have a triangular shape.  It is my guess that they leave very few if any scratches at 0000 because wool is not based on a particle but rather a strand.  So rather than cut it rubs.  Kind of like really small razor blades. The problem we have is that they rust so quickly.  Leaving a red stain on white vinyl frames or paint.

If you look into compositional abrasives you will find some fascinating animals out there.  Such as plastic abrasives.  These are softer than glass, but are rather sharp.  So they cut through stuff like cured silicone caulk, paint, and wood stain.  Add a solvent like DLimonene at 90% purity and you have an effective tool.  It also won't rust. The problem that I have with acrylic particles for example, is they are only sold down to 177 microns.  Maybe 100 microns.  But I want them down to 20 or even 15 microns.  That would be equal to around 600 to 700 mesh.

Regarding compositionals there are also some very hard woods like walnut shell.  These are much better for the ecology.  The only problem is they do tend to absorb water and can become soft.  They also are difficult to get as a very fine micronized powder.  Nonetheless I do see them as a possible creative solution to various problems.

Here is another fascinating abrasive idea.  Actually using frozen carbon dioxide particles as a blast medium for cleaning various surfaces.  I wonder how it might work on glass. http://www.coldjet.com/

One thing I am working on now is removing hard water spots from glass sealants.  I first want a hydrophylic silane sealant that can be applied to the glass once it has been polished.  The sealant should be water miscible so it will go on quickly with our cleaner.  Soap, squeegee and you're done.  This sealant should also stand up to high pH water runoff from concrete or groundwater.  Then the applicator used to clean must also remove any newly formed hard water spots using some type of abrasive.  That abrasive coupled with the new surface treated with a sealant should release the new spots.  Further the cleaning solution will put down a new silane treatment for the next cleaning.

This is not just an idea.  I have already had success with screen stain (which is an aluminum dioxide deposit), Rain X, and 0000 steel wool.  All I need to do is change the players for concrete efflorescence and sprinkler system spots.  The abrasive should not be one that will remove glass.  It must not be that aggressive. Rather it should be aggressive enough to remove the new spots from the silane coating.  Hopefully it also will not remove much if any of the silane.  But the solution that is used to scrub with (clean) will also put down another coat of silane.

Written by Henry Grover Jr.
henrygroverjr@gmail.com

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