The very first thing that MUST be considered is excatly what surface you are working on. The reason for this is so either you or I can purchased a brand new sample of this window. Once we have it we can test any product on it to see if that product is safe. It cannot and must not do any harm to the surface.
Then we need to source which product(s) we need to test and test them on the sample plate/window. Once we have discovered which ones are safe you can go to the job site and do a hand test of a 4 by 4 inch surface. This is very simple. Just soap and squeegee the window. Make sure it is free of all dirt. Then by hand rub your product on the surface. A 4 by 4 inch area. You should have the approval of the owner/manager beforehand. Soap and squeegee then examine the results. Look for scratching in the bright sun. Also check to see if any of the coating was removed. There are different ways to do this.
Building a product involves finding the best superabrasive powder(s). Then locating the right carrier fluid. Which might be based on a powerful organic solvent. This will depend on exactly what you are removing. You might just be dealing with a mar damaged surface. Or light scratches. But you might be dealing with paint or cured concrete. Depending on all of these factors and more we might need to "build a product". Or not.
Since we are working mostly on thin film metal coatings like titanium dioxide, a typical metal polish like Flitz could work. Or even a brass polish like Top Brite. Sourcing the right product might take some time. But once found you will have it to use again.
Just remember NOT to ever use a razor on a coated surface no matter what it is. Remember the factory applied coatings usually cannot be restored. They cannot be stripped off and reapplied. Whereas as field applied coatings usually can.
But this is why I should work along with you regarding anything that needs more than a good scrub and squeegee. Just send me an email with any questions.
Henry Grover Jr.
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