I know it goes without saying;...but hard water spots come from hard water drops. Hard water drops are hard because they are loaded with silicate based minerals. Silicates are microscopic "rocks". Hence the word hard. These silicates usually include the elements silicon, oxygen, aluminum, iron, sulfur, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, and sodium. They are very similar to the chemistry of window glass, and so have the tendency to "lock on" to the microscopic surface. Once there they can initiate an exchange reaction with the atoms in the glass effecting a stage two static etch over time. So that when they are removed via a superabrasive based polish what remains is a visible distortion of the surface or a "fingerprint" of the spot itself. I can make this statement with absolute confidence since I have performed the experiment myself on a piece of dark glass cut from an existing window damaged by hard water drops. Dark tinted glass by the way is much more likely to become damaged by hard water, and is much more difficult to restore. Many of the videos on the internet demonstrating stain removal systems are performed on first surface reflective glass. This is the easiest surface to clear. I would like to see one done using dark glass!
So many people think that hard water spots are just a deposit. Just a simple stain. While this is usually true at the beginning, it is not always true. Over time serious damage can be done. The reason lies in the anatomy of the spot. The spot forms as has been mentioned from a hard water drop. As that drop evaporates in the hot sun the concentration of silicates increases, and so does the pH of the water drop. When the pH reaches 9 and above a chemical reaction begins leaching the hydrogen atoms from the glass surface. As time wears on other atoms/elements such as sodium, calcium, and oxygen are leached away. At this point complete dissolution takes place or what is called a stage two static etch. Both the reaction byproducts and the various silicates in the original drop are left behind as the water molecules evaporate. Hence it is considered static. It is also true that not all of the water molecules have left. You would have to heat the glass to seven hundred degrees to accomplish this. But from what we can see with the unaided eye;... the glass is dry.
The greatest damage or dissolution takes place around the outer edge of the spot. This is because as the drop evaporates it does so from the middle out. I call the middle area the "basin", and the outer edge the "ring". The drop ring rather than the basin carries most of the silicates and so reaches the highest pH first. So logically this is where most of the damage or dissolution takes place. The spot basin is virtually untouched. If you look close at the pictures shown on the side bar here you will see what I mean.
What is interesting about the potential of hard water drops to etch a glass surface is the fact that this action is increased by a few different factors. One is simple repetition. Every time a drop runs down the window, it is caught by a previously existing spot. The drop stops right over the spot, and evaporates right there when the sun comes out the next day. So spots will become more and more intense over time by this process. As each drop forms on top of each spot and evaporates, etching becomes more severe. Another factor to consider is how hot the glass is because this determines how quickly each drop evaporates. Which allows for many more drops to form and evaporate. It also means that the chemical reaction or dissolution of the glass will be much more pronounced. Heat always speeds up a chemical reaction. Another factor to consider, which has already been mentioned briefly, is the chemistry of the glass. Dark glass is much more likely to react with highly alkaline water drops. This is why water spots are much more difficult to remove from this type of glass surface. Dark glass also heats up more quickly in the sun. Ordinary clear glass is the next down. And the easiest to clear are reflective pyrolytic first surface windows.
I am quite sure that a deeper look into the "structural biology" of hard water spots would reveal some rather fascinating facts about the destructive nature of these "one celled" animals. Their "cellular walls" are in fact alive as each spot evolves through its life cycle. One tactic is to prevent the walls from forming in the first place by creating a hydrophylic surface by the use of a titanium dioxide coating. Of course hydrophylicity can be created in other ways too. There are various silanes that can be functionalized to form covalent bonds with the "free" oxygen atoms on the surface of glass, and at the same time hold onto water molecules strongly enough to form a film. In this way water drops are not so easily formed. I would like to point out that the ability of such designer coatings to resist the alkali attack of high pH water drops is not dependent on their hydrophobic/hydrophylic properties;...but rather their chemistry. It is also true that when spot rings have been eliminated by hydrophylic coatings, it is far less likely that hard water from either a sprinkler system or concrete efflorescence will do damage to such coatings. And so the holy grail of stain resistant coatings might not be hydrophobics at all. But rather just the opposite. You judge!
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
henrygroverjr@gmail.com
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Thursday, December 4, 2014
Wednesday, November 19, 2014
Mineral Deposit Edu for Customers
Hard water stains or mineral deposits can occur all the way up sixty six stories, or just on the first floor. They can come from brickwork, concrete facades, sprinkler systems, or the garden hose. They can also result on the inside of windows surrounding indoor pools. When they form they can be extremely difficult to remove. Most times very special polishing procedures are required to accomplish this. Acids which etch glass should never be used to remove mineral deposits since these can very quickly and easily destroy windows. It is because of these reasons that the correct procedure for "clearing" windows of mineral deposits can be extremely expensive.
Our customer might tell us to just use a little steel wool. Or extra soap? Or what about a store bought product people use on their bathroom fixtures? Obviously they are not familiar with the nature of the problem. Mineral deposits can start developing on an invisible level. Then they become more and more noticeable until they are very unsightly and absolutely impossible to remove with a simple inexpensive procedure. The greatest reason for this is that such spots are very similar to glass itself. They are based on a combination of silicates and silica. This is what the matrix of glass is. It is like trying to remove paint from paint. Another reason why they are so difficult to remove lies in the fact that exterior glass surfaces on a microscopic level look like the lunar landscape. Check out the picture here on this blog showing what the etched surface of window glass looks like. Over time the exterior/weather side of window glass is attacked mostly by acid rain and is badly etched. Water vapor will react with the elements that make up soda lime/window glass literally leaching away certain atomic components. You can actually feel this by lightly running a dry fingertip across the dry inside surface of a storm window and compare this to the outside surface of the same plate of glass. The outside surface will be much more rough. Mineral deposits which are essentially silicon based salts, will fill in and strongly attach themselves to the windows by means of these microscopic leached pores.
Water spots or mineral deposits can actually be seen before they become obvious by simply fogging a "clean" window surface with your breath. As the fog forms it will show up every spot. Then as the fog vanishes so do the spots. Try running a dry fingertip across that surface and you will soon notice how much friction this generates. If you polish a clear spot using an ultra pure polishing compound you will notice how smooth it becomes. Try doing this with steel wool, extra soap, or bathroom stain remover based on hydrochloric acid. It just won't happen.
Further. If the effort is made to remove all spotting/minerals early on before they become tenaciously attached and quite unsightly; then a special sealer should be applied immediately after the restoration work is performed. Make sure the sealer is one that has been tested and is not attacked by alkali chemistry or UVC. Your window cleaner will know exactly which one to use. The application of such a chemical will help to keep the windows looking absolutely pristine.
So if your window cleaner tells you that it would be a good thing to "restore" your windows, it would be a good thing to listen. Listen now, pay a little now, or pay a LOT later down the line. The choice is up to you!
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
henrygroverjr@gmail.com
If you would like these posts to come into your inbox as they are written please put your address in the box at the top right, "Follow by Email".
Also if you have any interest in any of the products mentioned or alluded to in any of these posts please just send me an email.
Our customer might tell us to just use a little steel wool. Or extra soap? Or what about a store bought product people use on their bathroom fixtures? Obviously they are not familiar with the nature of the problem. Mineral deposits can start developing on an invisible level. Then they become more and more noticeable until they are very unsightly and absolutely impossible to remove with a simple inexpensive procedure. The greatest reason for this is that such spots are very similar to glass itself. They are based on a combination of silicates and silica. This is what the matrix of glass is. It is like trying to remove paint from paint. Another reason why they are so difficult to remove lies in the fact that exterior glass surfaces on a microscopic level look like the lunar landscape. Check out the picture here on this blog showing what the etched surface of window glass looks like. Over time the exterior/weather side of window glass is attacked mostly by acid rain and is badly etched. Water vapor will react with the elements that make up soda lime/window glass literally leaching away certain atomic components. You can actually feel this by lightly running a dry fingertip across the dry inside surface of a storm window and compare this to the outside surface of the same plate of glass. The outside surface will be much more rough. Mineral deposits which are essentially silicon based salts, will fill in and strongly attach themselves to the windows by means of these microscopic leached pores.
Water spots or mineral deposits can actually be seen before they become obvious by simply fogging a "clean" window surface with your breath. As the fog forms it will show up every spot. Then as the fog vanishes so do the spots. Try running a dry fingertip across that surface and you will soon notice how much friction this generates. If you polish a clear spot using an ultra pure polishing compound you will notice how smooth it becomes. Try doing this with steel wool, extra soap, or bathroom stain remover based on hydrochloric acid. It just won't happen.
Further. If the effort is made to remove all spotting/minerals early on before they become tenaciously attached and quite unsightly; then a special sealer should be applied immediately after the restoration work is performed. Make sure the sealer is one that has been tested and is not attacked by alkali chemistry or UVC. Your window cleaner will know exactly which one to use. The application of such a chemical will help to keep the windows looking absolutely pristine.
So if your window cleaner tells you that it would be a good thing to "restore" your windows, it would be a good thing to listen. Listen now, pay a little now, or pay a LOT later down the line. The choice is up to you!
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
henrygroverjr@gmail.com
If you would like these posts to come into your inbox as they are written please put your address in the box at the top right, "Follow by Email".
Also if you have any interest in any of the products mentioned or alluded to in any of these posts please just send me an email.
Tuesday, November 18, 2014
Busting Fingerprints with Baking Soda & SKRUB
This is good old Baking Soda. Pure sodium bicarbonate. The chemical formula is NaHCO3. The CAS# is 144-55-8. It is an irritant to the skin and eyes as it is a mild alkali. And reacts with various acids to release little bubbles of carbon dioxide along with detergent salts. Which form directly between the surface in need of being cleaned and the grease. This facilitates easy removal by rinse water. Another way of explaining this is that the sodium bicarbonate actually creates detergents directly between the surface in need of being cleaned and the acidic greasy deposits like greasy fingerprints. The CO2 bubbles help to work the detergents in removing the grease. It therefore is a rather effective cleaning agent. When adding another detergent such as Dawn along with a micro-crystalline silica such as SKRUB you end up with a very powerful window cleaning solution. One of the best print busters yet.
I tried mixing just Baking Soda with water at one teaspoon to a gallon of water. It gave me just enough glide with a brand new rubber to eliminate chatter. But when I doubled this ratio I ended up with a concentration that I could move with. The only immediate problem that I could see was a slight bleeding effect. Also when a water line ran out from the window edge and dried, it left a white mark from the chemical. So I needed to be perfect. Although this could be seen as an advantage. It makes being perfect easier. Since any mistakes would be very easy to spot and correct.
Written by Henry Grover Jr
henrygroverjr@gmail.com
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Friday, November 14, 2014
Products and Knowledge
I am absolutely NOT going to sell all of the products mentioned in these posts. It would be way beyond my abilities. Especially now just starting out. My number one focus here is to develop a community of Professional Window Cleaners who are highly interested in advanced "transformational products". Along with learning more about Glass Surface Maintenance And Restoration Technology. Or G-S.M.A.R.T. These products, whether they be those I am selling or someones else's, will form the base from which we will be able to execute this technology. But it is still that body of knowledge that will transport us to where we want to go. We all know that a squeegee is a fantastic tool. If you leave the house without any in your work vehicle, you had better turn around. BUT. If you don't have the knowledge and skill it takes to use one correctly, then just give it up. The same is true for the products I am promoting through this blog. Knowledge, experience, talent, and skill are all critically important for the correct and best use of these products.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
henrygroverjr@gmail.com
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Written by Henry Grover Jr.
henrygroverjr@gmail.com
If you want to receive these posts in your inbox as they are written just type your address in the box at the top right, "Follow By Email".
Saturday, November 1, 2014
SKRUB
Skrub is a synthetic microcrystalline silica compound based on a pure glycerin carrier. The formula is 50/50 silica and glycerin by volume. The cost is 13.75 for an eight ounce container. Plus 3.75 for shipping. I am taking checks by mail or Pay Pal. Please call with any questions Mon through Fri from 9 to 5 eastern time. 603-498-9474. Or email anytime.
It is used as an additive for any cleaning solution. Just a half ounce per gallon. It can also be used as a hard water spot remover for light mineral deposits.
Check out my other two posts "Skrub;...Steel Wool for Your Bucket" and "Removing Glass Stains With Skrub".
Henry Grover Jr.
email henrygroverjr@gmail.com
It is used as an additive for any cleaning solution. Just a half ounce per gallon. It can also be used as a hard water spot remover for light mineral deposits.
Check out my other two posts "Skrub;...Steel Wool for Your Bucket" and "Removing Glass Stains With Skrub".
Henry Grover Jr.
email henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Creating The Correct Contact Angle for a WFP
The two terms hydrophylic and hydrophobic are purely arbitrary. They are only generalizations. NOT accurate definitions. The true scientific measure of how much a glass surface deflects or "beads" water is Contact Angle (CA). This varies greatly depending on the chemical sealant used and the coefficient of friction (CF) of the surface. If the surface has not been chemically treated so that it is chemically identical to any other glass surface that has not been chemically treated, then the greater the CF (the more rough it is) the less the CA will be. And hence the more it will hold onto and tend to "sheet" the rinse water from your pole. Put crudely;.. if you really rough up a window it will hold onto more water and not bead. It will "sheet" better. This is the reason why guys have been able to "make" hydrophylic glass with bronze wool.
It would be nice if we had a way to accurately measure the CA without buying a five hundred dollar piece of scientific equipment. However I think what is more important is to find a way to create the best surface for the WFP. Best for you. One that can be custom tailored to your personal liking. And then to simply and quickly test such a surface for uniformity and perfection. We do know that applying Rain-X or Aquapel is NOT the answer!
First we need to create a five micron surface with a five micron cerium oxide compound using the Wobble Wheel and a hard felt rad (ring/pad). Then test the uniformity and perfection with a cold fogger/mister. You can get one for as little as 25 bux. When you fog the surface it will create zillions of microscopic droplets of water. If the surface has not been perfectly microlapped you will see this in the pattern of micro-droplets. Which pattern should be totally smooth without any imperfections. Then you will want to hit the window with your WFP to see if you get the best sheeting action. The window will probably hold onto your rinse water too much. Five micron pure glass (no residue) surfaces will hold onto water with an iron grip. One micron surfaces are less water loving. They have a lower CF. You might try creating a perfect one micron surface. If you can create this superfinish test it for sheeting with your WFP. If this is a CA that is good for you then you're there! Such a pure glass surface would be the best way to go since there aren't any chemicals to wear off. You might even experiment on the same plate of glass by creating a one micron surface on one side and a five micron surface on the other side. Then put your WFP to it and see what the results are. If you still need a surface with a higher CA then you will need to go to a chemical.
Now we all know that Rain-X creates a CA which is way too high for WFP work. But did you know it is possible to reduce the CA created by Rain-X by cutting this product with isopropyl alcohol? Try it out on a surface that has been microlapped. Keep track of your percent of alcohol to product (Rain-X). Set up side by side tests using different percentages and see which one works out best with your pole. Next you will need to do an entire window and time yourself. Then you will have to sell it to yourself and your customer. Can you convert certain windows from windows that cannot be cleaned with a WFP to ones that now can be? Will it save you enough time and or will it save your customer enough money? There must be a monetary reason for doing this other than the satisfaction we get from a scientific experiment gone absolutely wonderful!
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To receive these posts in your inbox just type your address in the box at the top right "Follow By Email".
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
It would be nice if we had a way to accurately measure the CA without buying a five hundred dollar piece of scientific equipment. However I think what is more important is to find a way to create the best surface for the WFP. Best for you. One that can be custom tailored to your personal liking. And then to simply and quickly test such a surface for uniformity and perfection. We do know that applying Rain-X or Aquapel is NOT the answer!
First we need to create a five micron surface with a five micron cerium oxide compound using the Wobble Wheel and a hard felt rad (ring/pad). Then test the uniformity and perfection with a cold fogger/mister. You can get one for as little as 25 bux. When you fog the surface it will create zillions of microscopic droplets of water. If the surface has not been perfectly microlapped you will see this in the pattern of micro-droplets. Which pattern should be totally smooth without any imperfections. Then you will want to hit the window with your WFP to see if you get the best sheeting action. The window will probably hold onto your rinse water too much. Five micron pure glass (no residue) surfaces will hold onto water with an iron grip. One micron surfaces are less water loving. They have a lower CF. You might try creating a perfect one micron surface. If you can create this superfinish test it for sheeting with your WFP. If this is a CA that is good for you then you're there! Such a pure glass surface would be the best way to go since there aren't any chemicals to wear off. You might even experiment on the same plate of glass by creating a one micron surface on one side and a five micron surface on the other side. Then put your WFP to it and see what the results are. If you still need a surface with a higher CA then you will need to go to a chemical.
Now we all know that Rain-X creates a CA which is way too high for WFP work. But did you know it is possible to reduce the CA created by Rain-X by cutting this product with isopropyl alcohol? Try it out on a surface that has been microlapped. Keep track of your percent of alcohol to product (Rain-X). Set up side by side tests using different percentages and see which one works out best with your pole. Next you will need to do an entire window and time yourself. Then you will have to sell it to yourself and your customer. Can you convert certain windows from windows that cannot be cleaned with a WFP to ones that now can be? Will it save you enough time and or will it save your customer enough money? There must be a monetary reason for doing this other than the satisfaction we get from a scientific experiment gone absolutely wonderful!
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
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For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Thursday, October 23, 2014
This Product Can Destroy Your Competition!
Window cleaning products like Glass Gleam or Dawn just clean glass and nothing else. You can put together your own cleaner that digs down deep into the glass pores and removes every bit of dirt and grease. Leaving a perfectly clean surface. But that is not all! At the same time it seals the surface with a PDMA that has an 18 carbon chain extended to push away every water molecule for a hydrophobic and oleophobic surface. So it cleans and seals at the same time. I even applied this once on a car windshield in the POURING rain. It worked instantly. I really have to do a video on this one. With a video like that to show your potential customers you would really wow them!
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
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For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To receive these posts in your inbox just type your address in the box at the top right "Follow by Email".
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Transformer Products for Private Label
A Transformer Product is one that can be used along with other products which are already on the market. The purpose is to create a new product which can be considered proprietary by the Window Cleaning Company that formulates it. Such transformationals can be powders, compositional abrasives, colloidal suspensions, compounds, or slow release coatings (SRCs). They are transformational in that they can be changed individually into something with a completely different application, or added to another existing product for a very specialized application. The Window Cleaning company has the option of creating virtually anything their imagination allows for. They can obtain their own MSDS, and private label the blend or product. This is going to be the focus of my new business Glass Smart Products. The videos that I create under the name Breaking Glass Productions will be for the purpose of showing something of what can be done with the Transformationals.
Have fun!
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
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For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Have fun!
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To receive these posts in your inbox just type your address in the box at the top right "Follow by Email".
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Wednesday, October 22, 2014
A Window Cleaning Spray for our Customers
It seams that the best formula for a window cleaning product that is sprayed on and wiped off with paper towels is a 70 percent solution of alcohol and thirty percent pure water. You definitely would not want to use any amount of ethylene glycol monobutylether (EB) to give your product a bit more cut. I suggest using a nanoparticle below, but there might be an additional nontoxic green chem that can be added. Check out the toxicology info one the net for EB. It is not good. Some have added various surfactants and propellants but the detergents even in very low concentration tend to cause filming and streaking. I would rather see some type of a nanoparticle (close to one micron) used in a permanent suspension to give the product that extra cut. Maybe a silica or an aluminum oxide. Then we could claim our product is based on nanotechnology. Anything at one percent or less does not have to be listed on the MSDS but can be written up as proprietary. Your MSDS writer will know. Of course the bottom line is simply that this method is certainly not the best one for cleaning windows. The best is either a squeegee or a water fed pole.
The idea of creating a one step glass cleaner for our commercial customers has been presented to me in the past. My thought was immediately that this would be heresy. We are window cleaners! But the more I think about it the more I realize it is virtually impossible to change the way people think. So why not give them the best? At a great profit. With a label that has our business name, address, website, and phone number. Do not sell a concentrate. That diminishes profit. Plus they just want to grab it, spray, and wipe. Sell it one gallon at a time with a small spray bottle they can refill. Maybe five small spray bottles at a time. They will use it for everything. We will even end up selling to our customers customers. Hows that for publicity? NOT advertising!
OK. Product liability is a concern. For this business (Glass Smart Products) I am starting at the end of October it will cost me about forty bux a month based on a 25,000 dollar sales volume a year. You might want to do your own MSDS. There are professional writers for that. A quick search on the net is all you need to locate one. Of course the easiest way to get around the MSDS might be to find a commercial product already existing that meets the formula criteria, change their label to your own, buy your own product liability, and use their MSDS by changing the heading at the top only. You could ask the insurance company and product manufacturer if this would be OK. Special precautions might be necessary in California.
I am trying to think of ways now that I can increase the bux I make from my store accounts. Currently I have 110. Looking to boost for the winter. But. Why not sell add ons like other businesses? Add ons that promote publicity for my store front window cleaning biz. Like advanced window graphics supplies. Your store front customers' windows are their very best means of advertising. So why not take advantage of that?
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To recieve these posts directly in your inbox just type your address in the box "Follow by Email" located at the top right.
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
The idea of creating a one step glass cleaner for our commercial customers has been presented to me in the past. My thought was immediately that this would be heresy. We are window cleaners! But the more I think about it the more I realize it is virtually impossible to change the way people think. So why not give them the best? At a great profit. With a label that has our business name, address, website, and phone number. Do not sell a concentrate. That diminishes profit. Plus they just want to grab it, spray, and wipe. Sell it one gallon at a time with a small spray bottle they can refill. Maybe five small spray bottles at a time. They will use it for everything. We will even end up selling to our customers customers. Hows that for publicity? NOT advertising!
OK. Product liability is a concern. For this business (Glass Smart Products) I am starting at the end of October it will cost me about forty bux a month based on a 25,000 dollar sales volume a year. You might want to do your own MSDS. There are professional writers for that. A quick search on the net is all you need to locate one. Of course the easiest way to get around the MSDS might be to find a commercial product already existing that meets the formula criteria, change their label to your own, buy your own product liability, and use their MSDS by changing the heading at the top only. You could ask the insurance company and product manufacturer if this would be OK. Special precautions might be necessary in California.
I am trying to think of ways now that I can increase the bux I make from my store accounts. Currently I have 110. Looking to boost for the winter. But. Why not sell add ons like other businesses? Add ons that promote publicity for my store front window cleaning biz. Like advanced window graphics supplies. Your store front customers' windows are their very best means of advertising. So why not take advantage of that?
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To recieve these posts directly in your inbox just type your address in the box "Follow by Email" located at the top right.
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Monday, October 20, 2014
Removing Glass Stains with SKRUB
SKRUB is based on a synthetic silica particle of just the right size. It was created with the intention of helping to remove fingerprints as you applicate. Just a half an ounce of SKRUB per gallon of soapy water. It allows you to use a very mild synthetic detergent like lauramine oxide or cocamidopropylbetaine. There are other very mild detergents out there. However this is not the only use for it.
Since it is based on glycerin it is very easy to mix with water. It is also very concentrated. If you look at the MSDS of certain other commercial liquid compounds used for hard water spot removal, the percentage of silica or DE is very small. Whereas SKRUB is at fifty percent by volume. Which makes it possible to cut it by at least five times with pure water and still remove water spots. This I would do by hand. It will not scratch. And I have used it to remove aluminum screen stain also. I do suggest if you intend on using a rotary machine for spot removal then use a cerium oxide compound as this will produce a better more smooth surface.
There are other stains that can be removed by hand with SKRUB when it is mixed fifty/fifty with water. So it is a good product to have in the tool box for different situations. In a very dilute concentration with water it can be used with a slow polishing machine and the large Wobble Wheel to "micro-lap" glass surfaces in preparation for certain glass sealants. This process also converts the glass surface to one that loves water or hydrophylic. Not hydrophobic. Hydrophylic surfaces are much easier to clean with a water fed pole. The process takes about a minute per one to three square feet.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To receive these posts directly in your inbox just type your address in the box to the top right "Follow by Email".
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Since it is based on glycerin it is very easy to mix with water. It is also very concentrated. If you look at the MSDS of certain other commercial liquid compounds used for hard water spot removal, the percentage of silica or DE is very small. Whereas SKRUB is at fifty percent by volume. Which makes it possible to cut it by at least five times with pure water and still remove water spots. This I would do by hand. It will not scratch. And I have used it to remove aluminum screen stain also. I do suggest if you intend on using a rotary machine for spot removal then use a cerium oxide compound as this will produce a better more smooth surface.
There are other stains that can be removed by hand with SKRUB when it is mixed fifty/fifty with water. So it is a good product to have in the tool box for different situations. In a very dilute concentration with water it can be used with a slow polishing machine and the large Wobble Wheel to "micro-lap" glass surfaces in preparation for certain glass sealants. This process also converts the glass surface to one that loves water or hydrophylic. Not hydrophobic. Hydrophylic surfaces are much easier to clean with a water fed pole. The process takes about a minute per one to three square feet.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To receive these posts directly in your inbox just type your address in the box to the top right "Follow by Email".
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Secrets of Cerium Oxide
Since the early fifties Cerium Oxide powders have been used in the glass industry for removing light scratches and other blemishes from vehicular and architectural glass. Cerium Oxide powder is made from the two minerals bastanite and monazite. Bastanite is a complex fluorocarbon, and monazite is a phosphate.
If you venture into the caves of most any glass shop these days you will find a small bottle of cerium powder on the back shelf. Along with a circular sponge pad about an inch thick which is used on a rotary drill motor. The cerium is usually mixed with a little water, applied to the glass, and then worked for several minutes with the drill. This is actually somewhat effective at removing scratches that are barely visible but cannot be felt with a fingernail. If the process takes too long it is not continued and is given up. Simply because it is not considered cost effective. What I want to accomplish by means of this article is to show that there are more efficient ways to remove light scratches and blemishes from glass. That means in other words that we can do the same thing or better in less time. Lets look first at the polishing pad itself. I use a ring shaped pad made of hard felt. Not a light weight foam. The felt fibers have microscopic hooks that catch the polishing particles and help to drive them into the glass surface. Felt is also much more efficient at holding onto said particles so they can be used over a greater time. An optimum sized felt ring used for removing light scratches should have an outside diameter of three inches, and an inside diameter of one and a half inches. It should also have a crack and peal backing so it can be quickly applied to a thin aluminum or wooden disk. The disk has a small universal joint centered between itself and the shaft of the drill motor. This makes it possible to operate the drill at speeds in excess of 1200 rpms without the problem of “bobbing”. Which allows for perfect contact at all times. The hard felt will more effectively drive the cerium particles into the glass surface. And since cerium is chemically reactive with glass, the higher temperatures that this more advanced process creates will accelerate that reaction. You will notice by feeling the new dry surface with a dry fingertip, that it is much more rough than the original window glass. This proves that the polish is cutting into the glass. Cerium Oxide reacts with glass to create a complex new surface of cerium, oxygen, and silicon. This is softer than a soda lime glass matrix , and is therefore more easily removed by the abrasive action of the polishing particles.
The compound that I use is a fifty/fifty blend of pure cerium and glycerin. It can be easily transferred to an oral syringe. To remove light scratches you must first clean the glass well. Then you can use the compound straight or along with some water. You might apply some clean soapy water to the glass. Then put several drops of compound directly onto the hard felt ring. Next put the polishing ring against the glass and start polishing. To check the surface just clean the cerium and inspect. If you need to continue just apply more water and resume. If you want you can polish with the compound alone. Although using soapy water will stretch out the compound much further. Also water does assist with the chemical reaction and speeds up the polishing process.
The compound I have chosen and use is based on an ultrapure powder designed specifically for one step glass polishing. It has a high purity rating with just the right shaped particles. Which have the tendency of rubbing the glass more then cutting it as diamond does. Cerium will always create a much smoother surface. When the powder is suspended in just water it actually improves over time. I have developed a Micro Wobble Wheel for small area stain and scratch removal. Also I am working on different lapping rings made of hard felt and some other somewhat more exotic materials.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To receive these posts in your inbox just type your address in the box to the top right "Follow by Email".
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
If you venture into the caves of most any glass shop these days you will find a small bottle of cerium powder on the back shelf. Along with a circular sponge pad about an inch thick which is used on a rotary drill motor. The cerium is usually mixed with a little water, applied to the glass, and then worked for several minutes with the drill. This is actually somewhat effective at removing scratches that are barely visible but cannot be felt with a fingernail. If the process takes too long it is not continued and is given up. Simply because it is not considered cost effective. What I want to accomplish by means of this article is to show that there are more efficient ways to remove light scratches and blemishes from glass. That means in other words that we can do the same thing or better in less time. Lets look first at the polishing pad itself. I use a ring shaped pad made of hard felt. Not a light weight foam. The felt fibers have microscopic hooks that catch the polishing particles and help to drive them into the glass surface. Felt is also much more efficient at holding onto said particles so they can be used over a greater time. An optimum sized felt ring used for removing light scratches should have an outside diameter of three inches, and an inside diameter of one and a half inches. It should also have a crack and peal backing so it can be quickly applied to a thin aluminum or wooden disk. The disk has a small universal joint centered between itself and the shaft of the drill motor. This makes it possible to operate the drill at speeds in excess of 1200 rpms without the problem of “bobbing”. Which allows for perfect contact at all times. The hard felt will more effectively drive the cerium particles into the glass surface. And since cerium is chemically reactive with glass, the higher temperatures that this more advanced process creates will accelerate that reaction. You will notice by feeling the new dry surface with a dry fingertip, that it is much more rough than the original window glass. This proves that the polish is cutting into the glass. Cerium Oxide reacts with glass to create a complex new surface of cerium, oxygen, and silicon. This is softer than a soda lime glass matrix , and is therefore more easily removed by the abrasive action of the polishing particles.
The compound I have chosen and use is based on an ultrapure powder designed specifically for one step glass polishing. It has a high purity rating with just the right shaped particles. Which have the tendency of rubbing the glass more then cutting it as diamond does. Cerium will always create a much smoother surface. When the powder is suspended in just water it actually improves over time. I have developed a Micro Wobble Wheel for small area stain and scratch removal. Also I am working on different lapping rings made of hard felt and some other somewhat more exotic materials.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To receive these posts in your inbox just type your address in the box to the top right "Follow by Email".
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Saturday, October 18, 2014
Be a Diamond Clear Window Cleaner!
Diamonds can dramatically enhance the image of a Window Cleaning Company. They can also enhance our service and increase our annual profits. By making it possible to clean glass more effectively in less time. Restoring glass by removing scratches, abrasions, hard water spots, and acid damage. Further;...glass can now be coated and thus protected with thin films of diamond. This is common practice in the optics industry.
Everyone knows what a jewelers diamond is. To the right of this page you will see a micrograph of polycrystalline diamond particles used as superabrasives. Also a micrograph of a weathered or etched window glass surface. We have no use for jewelers diamonds. Yet polycrystalline diamond particles or superabrasives are quite useful. Since they can be used to effectively clean and restore glass surfaces. The picture to the far right shows quite vividly how porous ordinary glass surfaces can become over time. Oily fingerprints, pizza grease, or just dust will fill these holes, valleys, and tunnels. Making it impossible to effectively clean the glass using typical cleaners. But when we add a microcrystalline superabrasive to our cleaning solution we get much better results. Those ball like polycrystalline diamond particles with hundreds of sharp edges each, will reach down into the surface and dig out all acidic contaminants. But please don't be taken in by the sales hype of some manufacturers who have products based on diamond. I remember twenty years ago a level teaspoon of pure microcrystalline diamond powder cost fifty bux. How much of that could someone put into a product? Especially when the manufacturing cost of that product must be multiplied by a factor of 4 to 6 for an end retail price? Another consideration is nano-diamonds. I have an entire gallon of a nano-diamond colloidal suspension. Good for taking off fingerprints but that's it. So too small is not good. Also too big will scratch or abrade. Just right is what we need.
Polycrystalline diamond particles are also quite effective at lapping flat glass with the right tools. Creating what are called precision surfaces. Such particles are very effective owing to their size, shape, purity, and hardness. Some are even friable. Which means they actually break up into smaller particles when used. These smaller particles give the surface a smoother feel and appearance. So diamond can be used to restore window glass. I just did a great restoration on my pellet stove borosilicate glass door. Using my Micro Wobble Wheel and a 3 micron diamond compound. I would not suggest using this particular system on window glass however as it does leave a very slight abrasion haze that would be rather unsightly in the direct sun. A second step using a wet cerium slurry would be necessary. But it does demonstrate what kind of potential there is. Which needs to be explored by my G-SMART Community.
I am just beginning to bring the technology of superabrasive engineering of precision glass surfaces to the window cleaning industry. This is a field that has existed for a long time in the optics industry. It is highly scientific. If it were not we wouldn’t be able to look out into the unbelievable depths of space at the stars, galaxies, and quasars. Or down to the farthest reaches of the microcosm where living cells thrive, divide, and work together to create our bodies. Quality glass surfaces are critical to the proper functioning of lenses and mirrors. They are also to our work. My hope is that many will follow me. This is why I am creating the G-SMART Community.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To receive these posts directly in your email just type your address into the box at the right of this page, "Follow by Email".
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Everyone knows what a jewelers diamond is. To the right of this page you will see a micrograph of polycrystalline diamond particles used as superabrasives. Also a micrograph of a weathered or etched window glass surface. We have no use for jewelers diamonds. Yet polycrystalline diamond particles or superabrasives are quite useful. Since they can be used to effectively clean and restore glass surfaces. The picture to the far right shows quite vividly how porous ordinary glass surfaces can become over time. Oily fingerprints, pizza grease, or just dust will fill these holes, valleys, and tunnels. Making it impossible to effectively clean the glass using typical cleaners. But when we add a microcrystalline superabrasive to our cleaning solution we get much better results. Those ball like polycrystalline diamond particles with hundreds of sharp edges each, will reach down into the surface and dig out all acidic contaminants. But please don't be taken in by the sales hype of some manufacturers who have products based on diamond. I remember twenty years ago a level teaspoon of pure microcrystalline diamond powder cost fifty bux. How much of that could someone put into a product? Especially when the manufacturing cost of that product must be multiplied by a factor of 4 to 6 for an end retail price? Another consideration is nano-diamonds. I have an entire gallon of a nano-diamond colloidal suspension. Good for taking off fingerprints but that's it. So too small is not good. Also too big will scratch or abrade. Just right is what we need.
Polycrystalline diamond particles are also quite effective at lapping flat glass with the right tools. Creating what are called precision surfaces. Such particles are very effective owing to their size, shape, purity, and hardness. Some are even friable. Which means they actually break up into smaller particles when used. These smaller particles give the surface a smoother feel and appearance. So diamond can be used to restore window glass. I just did a great restoration on my pellet stove borosilicate glass door. Using my Micro Wobble Wheel and a 3 micron diamond compound. I would not suggest using this particular system on window glass however as it does leave a very slight abrasion haze that would be rather unsightly in the direct sun. A second step using a wet cerium slurry would be necessary. But it does demonstrate what kind of potential there is. Which needs to be explored by my G-SMART Community.
I am just beginning to bring the technology of superabrasive engineering of precision glass surfaces to the window cleaning industry. This is a field that has existed for a long time in the optics industry. It is highly scientific. If it were not we wouldn’t be able to look out into the unbelievable depths of space at the stars, galaxies, and quasars. Or down to the farthest reaches of the microcosm where living cells thrive, divide, and work together to create our bodies. Quality glass surfaces are critical to the proper functioning of lenses and mirrors. They are also to our work. My hope is that many will follow me. This is why I am creating the G-SMART Community.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To receive these posts directly in your email just type your address into the box at the right of this page, "Follow by Email".
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
G-S.M.A.R.T. Community
G-S.M.A.R.T. stands for Glass Surface Maintenance And Restoration Technology. I am now beginning a list of Window Cleaners who are very much involved in this work. This nucleus will serve as a fantastic resource of knowledge for others looking to get on board. There are so many products and systems out there that no one person could know it all. But a consulting team or specialized community could.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To receive these posts in your email just type your address into the box at the right "Follow by Email".
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To receive these posts in your email just type your address into the box at the right "Follow by Email".
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Friday, October 17, 2014
Creating Precision Surfaces
To effectively remove stains or scratches from window glass we must create a new “precision surface”. The goal is to remove as little glass as possible, in the least amount of time, and end up with the most optically precise surface. This is done with a host of different superabrasive particles. Which can be either bonded or loose. Bonded superabrasives are held together within or on the surface of a solid matrix. Which could be metal, resin, or plastic. An example would be diamond lapping film used in the optics industry. Such films are coated with diamond particles, and are usually applied with either a proprietary liquid, water, or a simple light oil. Loose superabrasives can be applied dry or mixed with water or a light mineral oil. Or we might create a compound where loose particles are suspended in a thick carrier fluid. The thicker the carrier fluid the longer the particles will remain in suspension. For the product to be commercially viable they must remain in suspension for at least six months. One simple way to test a compound for shelf life involves the use of a centrifuge. I developed one with a variable speed up to 25,000 rpms, and an eight inch diameter. One example of a commercial compound is polycrystalline diamond. It comes in different colored oral syringes. Each color indicates a different particle size.
The micro-abrasive machining process of the optics industry is accomplished by literally driving the particles into the glass surface so that they cut away small bits of glass. In so doing they become dull and create a smoother surface. Some are friable and will break up into smaller particles revealing new sharp edges. These will also generate a smoother surface. In general smaller particles result in a more smooth surface. It really is all about the particle. Any particles chosen to resurface glass must be harder than glass. They might however have different hardnesses (one from another), sizes, shapes, chemistries, purities, and even surface functionalities. All of these different characteristics can be exploited to attain different results. Not to mention the different ways they are employed whether bonded or loose. Further;...different abrasives might be blended together. Certain compositional abrasives which are typically softer than glass, might even be added to obtain different results. The possibilities are virtually endless!
Lets begin with cerium oxide. This particle/powder, “reacts with glass to create a complex new surface of cerium, oxygen, and silicon. This is softer than a soda lime glass matrix , and is therefore more easily removed by the abrasive action of the polishing particles”. As of recent this superabrasive has become rather expensive. Most of the commercial hard water stain removal products sold to the window cleaning industry are not based on cerium oxide. Rather they use crude silicas. A pure optical grade cerium is very effective at removing most stains and light scratches. It is however critically necessary to use the correct application method. Some people will use a hard felt pad on a rotary drill motor. They dip the edge of a wet pad in a pail of dry powder. Then they rip into the glass ’edge on’! This creates very intense waves of zillions of microscopic scratches. This ‘abrasion burn’ is completely invisible except in direct sunlight at just the right viewing angle. The solution lies in creating the correct ’pad interface’. It is true that we want to attain the highest stock removal rate possible. Yet we can’t overlook the fact it is quite easy to do serious damage to the ’optical surface’. Enough damage at least to win a lawsuit. While there are many pad interfaces to choose from my favorite to date is a hard felt ring on a special aluminum polishing wheel. I developed this system which is based on what I call the Wobble Wheel. It uses a universal joint and a failsafe collar. The hard felt pad remains totally flat on the glass at all times preventing what I have described here as abrasion burn. This is what I like to call a fusion technology which joins the optics world with ours.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To receive these posts directly into your email just type your address into the box at the right Follow by Email.
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
The micro-abrasive machining process of the optics industry is accomplished by literally driving the particles into the glass surface so that they cut away small bits of glass. In so doing they become dull and create a smoother surface. Some are friable and will break up into smaller particles revealing new sharp edges. These will also generate a smoother surface. In general smaller particles result in a more smooth surface. It really is all about the particle. Any particles chosen to resurface glass must be harder than glass. They might however have different hardnesses (one from another), sizes, shapes, chemistries, purities, and even surface functionalities. All of these different characteristics can be exploited to attain different results. Not to mention the different ways they are employed whether bonded or loose. Further;...different abrasives might be blended together. Certain compositional abrasives which are typically softer than glass, might even be added to obtain different results. The possibilities are virtually endless!
Lets begin with cerium oxide. This particle/powder, “reacts with glass to create a complex new surface of cerium, oxygen, and silicon. This is softer than a soda lime glass matrix , and is therefore more easily removed by the abrasive action of the polishing particles”. As of recent this superabrasive has become rather expensive. Most of the commercial hard water stain removal products sold to the window cleaning industry are not based on cerium oxide. Rather they use crude silicas. A pure optical grade cerium is very effective at removing most stains and light scratches. It is however critically necessary to use the correct application method. Some people will use a hard felt pad on a rotary drill motor. They dip the edge of a wet pad in a pail of dry powder. Then they rip into the glass ’edge on’! This creates very intense waves of zillions of microscopic scratches. This ‘abrasion burn’ is completely invisible except in direct sunlight at just the right viewing angle. The solution lies in creating the correct ’pad interface’. It is true that we want to attain the highest stock removal rate possible. Yet we can’t overlook the fact it is quite easy to do serious damage to the ’optical surface’. Enough damage at least to win a lawsuit. While there are many pad interfaces to choose from my favorite to date is a hard felt ring on a special aluminum polishing wheel. I developed this system which is based on what I call the Wobble Wheel. It uses a universal joint and a failsafe collar. The hard felt pad remains totally flat on the glass at all times preventing what I have described here as abrasion burn. This is what I like to call a fusion technology which joins the optics world with ours.
Written by Henry Grover Jr.
To receive these posts directly into your email just type your address into the box at the right Follow by Email.
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Thursday, October 16, 2014
Testing Glass Sealants
We are professionals in what we do. So if we are to sell a coating application for window glass we should be able to explain with confidence how long the application will last, and under what conditions it will degrade. We also should be able to define exactly what the benefits will be to the customer. Because it is those benefits that we are selling. There are many different competing products out there. Some of them the customer has direct access to at the local Walmart. Others are now made available on brand new windows, shower doors, and mirrors. We should be concerned with these competing products. Since we will have to offer something better. We will have to offer a personal and professional guarantee.
Longevity is a concern. Some products will wear off in a single day. Others will last for a month. Then there are some that are advertised to last for six months. I have a running test on one that goes back ten years. On dark glass even. It is the suns UVC radiation that is mostly responsible for degrading coatings. Which by the way can be either hydrophobic or hydrophilic. As is demonstrated by the picture above this is determined by the size of water drops. A hydrophilic surface will show much larger drops. If you were to sell a coating as a professional applicator you absolutely would not want to tell the customer the brand name of the product used. In my opinion. The reason is very simple and plain. Each product out there has its own unique advantages. One advantage might be scratch resistance, another longevity, another hydrophylicity or hydrophobicity, and yet another is resistance to alkali degradation by mineral deposits/hard water spots. If I were to sell a coating application service at a substantial price, I would need direct personal experience with it. So that I could guarantee that it will do what I am applying it for. Sometimes it is possible to demonstrate the application. Such as the hydrophobic/hydrophilic balance. Or scratch resistance. Or even alkali degradation. Longevity is probably the most difficult. Unless you had a very powerful UVC lamp.
Lets look at alkali attack. I have proven that alkali attack at 9 to 9.5 pH will effectively eliminate all traces of certain hydrophobic glass coatings. Simply by putting small two inch droppings of concrete on a test plate treated by the coating in question. Leave the concrete on the horizontal test plate for a full 24 hours then remove. By running the plate under the tap it will become instantly apparent whether the coating has stood up to attack. Hard water reaches a very high pH the last few minutes of a water drops life as the water poofs away. Leaving behind mineral deposits. This high pH is what degrades the coating causing the mineral deposits to cling to the glass surface. If someone hires us to keep spots from sticking to their glass this kind of information would be helpful. But not absolute! We can only be absolutely confident (and get the bigger buck) by proving to the customer that our service will keep spots from sticking to their glass. This can only be done by means of a timed test. If the spots are coming from the efflorescence of the buildings exterior façade the option of diverting the sprinkler heads doesn’t exist.
What about scratching? I developed a very simple test for scratching. Definitely not an ASTM test. Where I just coated one side of a mirror with the product in question. Then I took a broken piece of glass and purposely tried to scratch the entire surface. One product I tested stood out. All other products failed really bad. My first question after this discovery was, will this product stand up to sand in the wind on a windshield? So;...I duplicated sand in the wind by performing a side by side test using a sandblaster set on low. It failed completely. You might look for independent studies done on certain products you are thinking of buying. My advice here however is to buy the product, or get a piece of glass in the mail that has been treated with the product you are thinking of buying, and test it yourself. Believe in your own ability to figure it out. It is your own personal confidence in the service that you are offering that will sell it. Every time!
Written By Henry Grover Jr.
To recieve these posts directly in your email just type your address in the box to the right "Follow by Email".
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
Longevity is a concern. Some products will wear off in a single day. Others will last for a month. Then there are some that are advertised to last for six months. I have a running test on one that goes back ten years. On dark glass even. It is the suns UVC radiation that is mostly responsible for degrading coatings. Which by the way can be either hydrophobic or hydrophilic. As is demonstrated by the picture above this is determined by the size of water drops. A hydrophilic surface will show much larger drops. If you were to sell a coating as a professional applicator you absolutely would not want to tell the customer the brand name of the product used. In my opinion. The reason is very simple and plain. Each product out there has its own unique advantages. One advantage might be scratch resistance, another longevity, another hydrophylicity or hydrophobicity, and yet another is resistance to alkali degradation by mineral deposits/hard water spots. If I were to sell a coating application service at a substantial price, I would need direct personal experience with it. So that I could guarantee that it will do what I am applying it for. Sometimes it is possible to demonstrate the application. Such as the hydrophobic/hydrophilic balance. Or scratch resistance. Or even alkali degradation. Longevity is probably the most difficult. Unless you had a very powerful UVC lamp.
Lets look at alkali attack. I have proven that alkali attack at 9 to 9.5 pH will effectively eliminate all traces of certain hydrophobic glass coatings. Simply by putting small two inch droppings of concrete on a test plate treated by the coating in question. Leave the concrete on the horizontal test plate for a full 24 hours then remove. By running the plate under the tap it will become instantly apparent whether the coating has stood up to attack. Hard water reaches a very high pH the last few minutes of a water drops life as the water poofs away. Leaving behind mineral deposits. This high pH is what degrades the coating causing the mineral deposits to cling to the glass surface. If someone hires us to keep spots from sticking to their glass this kind of information would be helpful. But not absolute! We can only be absolutely confident (and get the bigger buck) by proving to the customer that our service will keep spots from sticking to their glass. This can only be done by means of a timed test. If the spots are coming from the efflorescence of the buildings exterior façade the option of diverting the sprinkler heads doesn’t exist.
What about scratching? I developed a very simple test for scratching. Definitely not an ASTM test. Where I just coated one side of a mirror with the product in question. Then I took a broken piece of glass and purposely tried to scratch the entire surface. One product I tested stood out. All other products failed really bad. My first question after this discovery was, will this product stand up to sand in the wind on a windshield? So;...I duplicated sand in the wind by performing a side by side test using a sandblaster set on low. It failed completely. You might look for independent studies done on certain products you are thinking of buying. My advice here however is to buy the product, or get a piece of glass in the mail that has been treated with the product you are thinking of buying, and test it yourself. Believe in your own ability to figure it out. It is your own personal confidence in the service that you are offering that will sell it. Every time!
Written By Henry Grover Jr.
To recieve these posts directly in your email just type your address in the box to the right "Follow by Email".
For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com
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