Locating S4 Coated Glass

This thin film coating is based on tin oxide and silver oxide.  It is applied to the fourth surface of an IG unit and so is exposed to the inside of the building.  It is a second low e coating and is used many times in the north to increase the amount of  heat from the sun that is captured during the day.  It is difficult to locate since it isn't that visible.  But since we are always in direct contact with it when we are cleaning the most important thing to know is we should NEVER use a razor blade on it.  Also if there is paint on it we need to know what products to use that will not do any harm.  I am in the process of developing these products.  One of which is a superabrasive plastic powder that can be blended with organic solvent like the essential oils or others.  One of which is in my car right now waiting for testing.  If you would like to learn more about S4 coated IG Units please check out this article from Mathews Brothers Windows. 

 https://mathewsbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/2016_2_S4-alt-layout.pdf

Also check out this video I made on locating S4 coatings.  I call it Squeek or no Squeek.

The most important thing to remember is to Know where these coatings are.  Which should be done at the time of construction when the home or building is constructed.  If you do find them they need to be protected  by removable plastic film.  This will guard against most anything except a hammer.

Henry Grover Jr.

henrygrover222@gmail.com

A Very Close Look At Steel Wool

 We use it all the time.  To remove heavy dirt, light hard water spots, aluminum screen stain, paint specs, silicone caulk fingerprints, minwax, and wood stain from windows.  But have you ever seen a video of how it is made?

The fibers of 0000 steel wool are between 15 and 20 microns in thickness.  They are just as hard as glass.  About 7 on the mohs scale.  And have a three sided cross sectional shape.  So each has three cutting edges.  Hence the fibers of steel wool as razor sharp.  This is why it is so good at cleaning.  It is just like using a billion razors.  

But remember.  According to our study of the PIF even very fine scratches much start with an impact crack.  Therefore since the microscopic edges drag across the surface they cannot create a PIF.  Which means the wool must dislodge and drag particles from the glass surface to do this.  First the impact crack (PIF), then by dragging the dislodged particle, the scratch is created!  Crack, drag, scratch.

Steel wool oxidizes very easily.  Once I put some in my pocket with a cell phone that had exposed terminals.  I felt my leg get really hot.  Pulled out the wool which was on fire.  The water bucket was two feet away.  Fortunately.  This is why an acidic cleaning solution will make the wool rust and leave red streaks all around a white plastic window frame.  If this happens just change out your water with a few gallons of distilled from the store.  Just carry some with you for residential trad work.

Now.  Different fiber based clothes can be very interesting to use.  Like microfiber cloths made for glass.  Or other hard plastic fiber clothes that are softer than glass.  Like the melamine plastic pads that we call magic sponges.  They are white, very soft, but chew off all kinds of stuff.  Because they have been made with holes that are about 20 microns.  Same sized hole as the thickness of 0000 steel wool!  No particles.  They have a mohs hardness of about 5.5.  Very cool ehhh?

There is a lot of room here for discover.  The playing field belongs to you!

Henry

henrygrover222@gmail.com

You Are All IGSA Consultants !

IGSA is the International Glass Smart Association.  If you read the Glass Smart Blogspot you are a member.  I have been writing this for over ten years.  It has recieved almost 178 thousand views.  Up to 5 thousand per month.  I am expecting over 10 thousand views per month by July based on my stats and business contacts.  Within a year from now it will go far beyond this because I will be branching out into other international organizations related to the development of and maintenance of glass products.  Currently there are 232 posts.  

It is focused on the Window Cleaning Industry but anyone can view the posts.  The goal is to develop the technology of  products and care of window glass.  Further, to do this by educating window cleaners.  To develop a body of window cleaners internationally who are indeed glass smart.  And to give them the tools and informational contacts through specialty educational organizations to accomplish this.  I believe the numbers listed above and the content of the blog has proven that I have already accomplished that.  The blog and the Glass Smart Products YouTube page are totally focused on this.

So yes.  You who read and use the information of the Glass Smart Blogspot are in fact IGSA Consultants.

Would you like an IGSA sticker?

Henry

henrygrover222@gmail.com

Exposing IG Unit Seal Failure

Yes.  Exposing seal failure.  Not what it is.  Because you know that!  And if your customers don't you can explain it easily enough.  But.  What really needs to be exposed here is the unbelievable frequency of this problem.

Just did a job a month ago with IG units.  They were all from possibly the seventies.  Only about a quarter inch vac in between the two plates.  I didn't find a single one that had failed.  Could not believe it!

Fast forward to the present time about 50 years later.  Technology has dramatically increased the space in between.  More insulation so this is better!  Right?  Wrong!  And we now have triple units along with many other new high tech "advances".  The seals are blowing out left and right.  Windows are fogging in front of our eyes.  When I built my house I told them, look guys I am a window cleaner of many many years.  Do NOT put IG units in.  So they didn't listen to me.  After only a single year half had lost their seals.  Warrantees will only pay for the units.  Not the replacement cost.  And are usually only good for one year.  Unless you pay big bux.  Then you can get protection for 5, 10, 15, and maybe 20 years.  No one wants to contribute to your grief however.  And still your warrantee will only pay for the windows.

Want to know the real crap shoot?  Windows can come straight from the manufacturer with bad/failed units!  Which are impossible to identify since the vapor captured inside is rather minimal.  Over time you will definitely see it.  The problem can be detected with a block of dry ice.  But who knows this and knows how to do it properly?  And who wants to spend the time to do it?  Definitely NOT the glorified Home Inspector.      

You know windows can come straight from the manufacturer with smoked insides.  That can only be seen in the direct sun next to a perfect window when both have been perfectly cleaned.  Windows can come with huge oily thumbprints in between,  Swirls and streaks from improper cleaning during the manufacturing process.  And one man told me last week, that he seen a big old fat dead bug in between.

Another problem I have detected is the absence of the Low E coating.  My customer was charged for it but never got it.  I am sure the window sales company was sure they were selling Low E windows.  But had no clue exactly how to make sure of this.  And no desire to learn how.  So the burden falls on the customer.

One last failure that I don't want to miss here.  Ever see that pink spotted look in the direct sun?  This is the damage condensation will do to a Low E coating.  It is in between.  Can't be fixed.  Can start almost invisibly.  But unless the building owner has the windows cleaned by a Glass Smart professional window cleaner they will not even have a clue what they are looking at.  They might even think they just have a dirty window.  Or a dirty window that they just can't seam to rub clean.

So get out there and EXPOSE!

Copy/Paste this article and send it out to all your customers on your email list.

Email me with any questions at henrygrover222@gmail.com 

Henry/Hank your choice

Practice Total Glass Care and stop the PIF!

A PIF stands for Point Indent Fracture.  And EVERY scratch starts with one.  Even light scratches.  A PIF also does not have to include a scratch.  But PIFs can be rather dangerous.  Especially the larger ones that look like bug crap and have crack legs.  Which a digital field microscope will show.  You can get one between 50 and 100 USD that will connect to your phone with an app off the net for free and allow you to store the images or videos.  This is what I did for some of my earlier posts on this blog. 

No one wants or needs a PIF!  Especially when the window costs 10 K to replace!  Most people don't know the PIF is a PIF or even what it is or how dangerous it can be.  So they try to rub it off.  This can cause the window to crack in at least two large pieces in about a microsecond.  A kid could walk by and press on it out of curiosity.  Same thing.  Not good!  My brilliant idea (maybe) would be to slap a vinyl sign over it advertising something.  Out of sight out of mind the saying goes.

So every time you clean windows look for those PIFs.  And always bring them to the attention of the owner.  You might end up saving them thousands of dollars.  This is what Total Glass Care is all about.  And while I am at it.  Lets make the windows more slippery so they don't incur any scratches.  No scratches no PIFs remember?  Well this is another topic for another post on this blog.  But let me say this to get your attention.  Ordinary dish soap can prevent scratches.  If you do it right.  But you would not want this answer.  The soap comes off in rain and the effect is lost.  Now certain hydrophobic sealants also work well.  But they too will wear off.  Some other products will not.  Want to go down this trail with me?  Then stay tuned.  Or write me at henrygrover222@gmail.com 

Practice Total Glass Care and stop the PIF!

Henry

700 dollars per window?

Yes.  And maybe more.  If the window cost two thousand to replace.  And you are the only one that can safely remove the stain, etch, scratches, concrete sealant, paint, hard water spots, and so on.  There are so many windows now that simply cannot be scraped without leaving scratches.  Windows with defective surfaces and windows with low e titanium dioxide coatings.  There are many metal coated windows like this out there.  None of them can take a razor without scratching, unlike smooth glass.  Many have coatings that are so transparent they are almost impossible to locate.  What happens when this kind of window is coved with silicone caulk, paint, or something else?  According to GANA the window is essentially wasted!  In other words it is in need of specialty restoration work.  And you can almost name your price.  Depending on whether you have the answer and what the window cost to replace!

I remember running into a building in PA once that had been treated with a silane concrete sealant.  Every window was covered with this sealant.  It could not be scraped.  Because the razor would not remove the sealant.  Simple enough.  This was one of those specialty restoration jobs that I just mentioned.  It could have been safely restored/cleared with a cerium oxide and a rotary polishing pad/machine.  But instead hydrofluoric acid was used.  For a "quick fix".  The dark glass was severely etched.  It became wavy and dimpled.  Fourth stage dynamic etching.  Now the glass could NOT be restored.

To restore the building properly each window would have required at least a solid hour to efficiently and completely clear.  Then the glass would have needed a hydrophobic glass sealant.  But that didn't happen.

A Glass Smart Technician would have been able to perform the work without completely wasting every window beyond repair.  If this building were under the care of such a company the problem would have never happened.  Because the owners would have consulted with that window cleaner before contracting out the work of sealing the concrete.

So go out there and make money.  But more importantly educate your existing customers.  Protection believe it or not is actually more profitable most times.  Because by pricing by the square foot to apply the proper glass sealant, coupled with minimal time per window, your profit per hour can be substantial.  Especially if you repeat every six months or once a year.

Send me an email and we can talk more.  Would you like to know more about the specialty uses for cerium oxide?  Where to buy a good brand?  What you should pay?  And how to use it efficiently?  Then keep attentive to these posts.  I will be writing a lot about the use of specialty superabrasive powders like cerium oxide.  Especially now that I am working with the Window Cleaning Resource (WCR) officially.

Henry Grover Jr.

henrygrover222@gmail.com

Total Glass Care Not Just Cleaning Windows!

We all can all do much more than clean windows.  We can Inspect and Protect.  As an example.  When cleaning windows who of us can ignore negative deflection?  It is SO obvious when using a six inch razor and even a squeegee.  But the building/home owner will never know they have it.  Unless we bring it to their attention.  Look at this simple test for negative deflection.

The blog and email listed at the end of this video do not exist anymore.  Rather use 

henrygrover222@gmail.com

Most windows do not have this problem right out of the window factory.  It can develop over 20 years.  And results when the vapor inside escapes with nothing to replace it.  But it can be a problem from the factory.  If it is discovered within the first year after the window has been purchased then the owner has the right to have it replaced free of charge.  At least the replacement window should not cost anything.

Why should a window with negative deflection be replaced?  Why is it defective.  Simply because it could implode.  The opposite of explode.  But the result is the same.  When the deflection becomes great enough and the atmospheric pressure is just right, you might clean the window and hear a bang minutes after.  This happened to a good friend.  The homeowner blamed him.  But when he did the research he was able to explain to the customer exactly what really happened.

All scratches start with what is called a Point Indent Fracture or a PIF.  We all have seen small indent fractures that look like bug poop.  If you do NEVER try to rub it off with the end of your applicator using pressure.  It might grow a crack leg and spread out in a microsecond.  This happened to me.  My "point" is that PIFs on a negatively deflected surface are especially dangerous!

All of this information pertains to the physical integrity of the window.  Which is information that can be brought to the owners attention should it be discovered. Because something can be done about it most times. Hence the expression Inspect and Protect.  You get the point.  We are more than window "cleaners".  We are Total Glass Care Technicians.  TGCTs.  Or Glass Smart.  S.urface M.aintenance A.nd R.estoration T.echnicians

Henry Grover Jr.

henrygrover222@gmail.com

Removing Vinyl Signs from Windows

 It is a very difficult job to remove large area signage from windows.  Even with a Triumph Scraper which I consider the very best.  The I use a six inch and the blade is very flexible.  This is important because most window glass is somewhat concave.

In approaching the job you will want to clean the window first.  Then apply one of the best products out there to soften and "move through" the vinyl to the opposite side.  Once wet leave the chemical there for between fifteen to twenty minutes.  Then start an edge and pull with you hands.  Use thin rubber gloves to keep your hands away from the chemical/product.  Pull VERY SLOW!  You will notice that even very old vinyl will become flexible from the chemical.  If it tears just start again and keep on pulling.  If you have high windows to do get a ladder that will bring you right up to the sign.  That way you will not have to rip off one inch strips with your pole.

If you do not use a chemical/product the vinyl will break off in small pieces and will take much longer to get it all off.  I just did a job today and was able to actually peal off an entire six square feet at once in about three minutes.  I could see where the chemical had soften the vinyl enough so it "rippled" but still remained intact.  That is the goal.  Because every time you have to start pealing again it takes more time.  Pricing should be by the square foot always. 

I am currently collecting the names of products and chemicals to do this type of work, and am making that available to anyone who is a member of IGSA.  IGSA membership is very easy to acquire.  First it is free.  Next you must read this blog.  Which is the only way you will get the information that will give you the edge over your competition where you live.  There is no other way.  BUT You will need to send an email to me so I can put you on my email list to send you the names of all the products and chemicals that are being referenced here.  Along with the companies that are selling them.

So it is up to you.  Send me your email and get on the IGSA email list.

Henry Grover Jr.

Glass Smart 

henrygrover222@gmail.com

  

Testing Superabrasive powders and Compounds for Potential Scratching Problems

There are so many products on the market now that are based on every type of superabrasive.  From diamond to aluminum oxide.  They are of every hardness rating, size, purity rating, shape, and chemical functionality.  We have nano particles, and micron sized particles.  There is a particle zoo out there.  Window cleaners use these products for removing scratches, blemishes, organic and mineral deposits, etched glass surfaces, and even cleaning.  There is also no limit to the different applications of such products!

The largest problem that we have when using these products on glass is scratches.  The reason can be that the product uses superabrasive particles that are as hard as or harder than glass.  Or they are too "sharp".  Or that they are not "pure" enough.  Meaning that even as little as one percent have particles more than 3 microns.  Superabrasive cerium oxide powder for example should be between 2.6 and 3 microns particle size at 99.9 percent purity.  The white ceriums are the most pure.  Although.  The application method can make all the difference.  If you are using the correct cerium for example with a spin pad on a rotary machine turned at an angle, so you are ripping into the glass with the edge of the pad;...you will leave waves of zillions of micro-scratches that will become visible in the direct sun.  Second story windows will show this effect easier than first story.  It is also true that when removing stains the mineral substance of the stains can interfere with the results of your superabrasive product.  I have tested products and techniques together on windows in the field before.  But on a very limited basis.  And with the approval of the customer.  The test I am describing here is only to test your product and technique.

I chose to use a mirror for this test.  Although others have used plate glass such as saphire glass they purchased brand new.  And once tested would view the plate in the direct sun at different angles and distances.  Without hydrofluoric acid.  My test uses a mirror, with hydrofluoric acid of at least one and a half percent, and in the dark with a flashlight. HF is a rather dangerous chemical.  Sulfuric acid also will work.  Either way wear goggles and rubber gloves if you chose to do the test.. OR call me and I will do the test for you.  Or might have already tested your product.

My test involves purchasing a new mirror.  Then using the product in question just like you would on your job.  You then should wet only half the area you worked on with your superabrasive product.  You could tape off half the area.  Next clean the mirror with just soapy water and a squeegee.  Take it into a totally dark room and look down the beam of a flashlight at the mirror.  If there are any scratches showing as errant scratches or waves of micro-scratches, you will see them rather easily.  They might even be visible on the side of you work area that did not make contact with the acid.  But will definitely be very strongly visible on the side that did make contact with the acid.

This is a very difiinitive test and will serve you well.  

There are may different products available out there.  As I continue to write about the many hundreds of tests I have and am developing, I hope you can use them to your advantage.  I will also be making these different products available to you if you are a member of IGSA.  But only if you are a member.  So I advise you to communicate with me by email so I can put you on my email list.  One that I should have started so very many years ago!

Henry Grover Jr.

henrygrover222@gmail.com