Every Window Is A Potential Lawsuit And A Potential Money Maker

The ONLY routine window cleaning jobs are the ones we have already done and fully inspected.  We must have "eyes wide open" regarding every new job.  Even before we price it there are some very basic tests we must do.  The very first thing that must be examined is whether the windows are scratch sensitive.  If so we cannot use a razor.  If they have a low e coating  we will be cleaning, we cannot use a razor.  So called self cleaning surfaces cannot be scraped.  And any other type of factory applied coatings.  If they have a polyester solar film we will need to address this.  What if the windows are made from acrylic or polycarbonate.  Same concerns and more.  I could go on for many paragraphs.  

The point I am making here is we must be Glass Smart.  Otherwise we could be risking a lawsuit.  But if we do even a quick inspection, and discover anything at all, we will then have the opportunity to be a little more free in our quotes.  Especially if there is anything going on which is a high risk.  Such as glass that is extremely scratch sensitive.  I actually think the very first step before pricing any new job should be to take an hour and look at it very closely.  You might even want to price this separate.  Then if there are any potential problems that would be explained and become the reason for a waiver.  Maybe even what I call a Trivalent Waiver.  First, during, and last.  I did a post on this idea.  Many of you already have waivers.  

I will continue this topic from time to time.  Please look up at the top of this blog for the Glass Smart FB link and join in this discussion.

Henry

henrygrover222@gmail.com

Join the Glass Smart Facebook Page Now!

Facebook Page  Please click on this link and come on over!  Now that I am writing the IGSA Tests we need some comments.  I am learning that there are SO many of you out that that have learned so much and am anxious to have some very interesting SMART discussions with you.  This is indeed the best way to do it.

Henry

henrygrover222@gmail.com

Testing Hydrophobic Sealants for Resistance to Portland Cement

Simple Question.  Which sealants will stand up to the high pH of Portland Cement as it cures over the course of a week?  Cement is very alkaline!  It can easily rise to a pH of 13.  Over several days it can drop to 9.  7 is neutral.  Below that is acidic.  The higher the pH the stronger the concrete.  If it drops to 6 or less cured concrete will visibly break up.  Not good.  

Now here is the interesting piece.  As it cures it forms a rather strong bond to glass.  Because of the chemistry.  It is easy to push off within a couple days.  Wait too long and you will be in deep muck!

Also hard water drops will rise to a pH of at least 9 (very alkaline) as they evaporate.  Also as they evaporate the mineral salts will condense around the outer edge of each spot.  Which causes the greatest pH there too.  This means that the static stage two etch happens predominantly at the outer edge.  Which is especially the case for dark tinted glass.

So.  If we can identify which commercial sealant is most effective at resisting the highest pH of cement as it cures over at least a few days, than that should also prove to be the best sealant to use against hard water spots so they can be easily removed.  But what kind of test should we use?

Testing Sealants Against Concrete.  First if you would like to get deep into the chemistry of the hydration of cement check out this page.  Cement Hydration  This IGSA test is rather simple and quite eye opening.  

First go out and buy a brand new mirror plate.  If you have about four different sealants to test get a one by two foot mirror.  Next polish the entire plate with a cerium oxide slurry and a sponge or felt pad with a square random oscillator of about 10,000 opms.  That is oscillations per minute.  This next picture I took from the Glass Smart FB.

It should take about thirty seconds per square foot to create a completely hydrophylic/water loving surface.  Clean it off and check.  Pure water should sheet over every square inch.  Next divide it up into four 6 by 12 inch areas separated by some white "paint tape".  Now apply four different product samples of sealants.  Like The Invisible Shield, Nanovations NG1010, Aquapel, and another.  There are many of them out there.  I will NOT get into the chemistry of them.  Because it really doesn't matter.  What matters most is their performance.  Let each sealant have enough time to cure.  According to the instructions.  And make sure that you apply each one correctly according to the instructions.  When you are ready mix up some nice wet cement and put about three little plops on each of the sealants.  Give your experiment at least several days for the cement to cure.  Let it hydrate.  Next remove all of the little cow paddies.  Clean the entire mirror.  Then run pure water over the entire plate.  The area where the cement did not make contact should still bead water.  Also the areas that did make contact with the cement should also bead water.  If there are any areas that did make contact with the cement that have stopped beading water then you will know that those sealants have been chemically degraded by the high pH of the concrete/cement.  And concrete would eventually lock onto those surfaces.  It is also important to know where you applied which sealant products. To identify which sealants were not effective.  If any sealants did not stand up to cement after only several days they most likely will not be very effective at standing up to hard water spots.  The test I did many years ago was quite striking.  It was very easy to identify the best sealants.

I will continue to work with this test.  It is in my toolbox.

Please come over to the Glass Smart FB and join in the SMART discussions.

Glass Smart FB

Henry

henrygrover222@gmail.com

Organic Solvents, Acids, Alkalies, Superabrasive Powders, and Surfaces

There are so many different chemicals and abrasives out there.  I really believe it is impossible to identify every one.  There are also new ones created every day.  If we completely ignored all of the chems and superabrasives there would still be a nonending line up of different window coatings and types of glass and plastic fenestration materials.

The Glass Committee of the IWCA is approaching this truth. I do applaud them for this.  Also they are working at moving through this confusion.  Which is also quite commendable.  My position on this is that we need to take things one step at a time.  Chemistry and physics will help a great deal along the way.  But testing will really be the most effective way to learn which combinations will damage which surfaces, and in what ways, and under what conditions.  Testing will also teach us which deposits, paints, and stains can be safely removed with the safe chems and superabrasives.  BUT  The tests MUST be performed on brand new surfaces.  Further as diverse as the ASTM is I really think they will not have the tests we need to learn what we need to know.  So we have to attack this work collectively but in a very logical scientific way.  Using new window surfaces.  This will mean many trips to the dump with wasted glass.  It will also mean the use of some interesting diagnostic tools.  Like a digital hand held lighted microscope for taking pictures of scratches and point indent fractures (PIFs).  There is so much to learn!

I am looking to work with other window cleaners in New England this year more than last.  The focus will be on getting the products I have discovered and others maybe that you are already buying from the WCR;...out into the field.  To use them on houses and stores.  Especially the preservation and inspection products.  I am very excited about these.  I always love it when I can show a customer something they have never seen before and wait for that look in their eyes.  It always satisfies!

So send me an email and we can meet up.  Either over the phone, zoom, or in person.

Henry

henrygrover222@gmail.com

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