Advanced Hard Water Spot Removal

It is relatively easy to remove light stains with almost any polishing system.  But there are very difficult stains that require much more advanced techniques to effectively and completely remove.  One way to determine if the spots have been completely removed is to fog over the new surface with either our breath or a steamer.  If the residue from mineral deposits is still present you will be able to see it.  Otherwise you will see only a light film of vapor.  Spot residue can also be felt with a dry fingertip. 

One system involves the use of a circular sponge like pad that is connected to a rotary machine.  The RPMs are between 1,200 and 3,000.  The faster the machine the quicker the spots will come off.  Obviously. Although this has the tendency to dry out any lubricant such as water much quicker. There is also a greater chance for creating zillions of little scratches by picking up any stray silicate particles from the surroundings. This is also why it is critical to very thoroughly clean the surface before polishing.  The pads used are around six inches in diameter.  In my experiments I determined that rotary machines are definitely more effective than random orbitals or random oscillators (which are square).  The random oscillators however are very effective at getting into the corners.  They also have the feature of not throwing the compound/slurry all over your work area.  You can work right up to the adjoining plate without getting anything on it.

Now while the exact compound is indeed critical to the performance of the system, it is also equally important to use the correct polishing pad.  There are reasons why people are having more success with steel wool pads over softer sponge-like pads.  Very simply put it is the steel strands that drive the polishing particles down into the surface.  How far they actually carry each particle is quite another matter.  But obviously they are dragging these particles some distance since the surface is being polished.  Let me relate an interesting discovery I made when looking at scratch removal techniques.  At the time I was playing with a 10,000 RPM Dremel motor.  When using a half inch hard felt bob and diamond compound around five microns I was able to remove fine line scratches;...slowly.  Of course it would jump around some.  But with a strong careful hand it could be done.  Then I went to a hard wooden bob.  Everything else was the same. The wooden bob was about three eighths of an inch in diameter.  It was able to remove stock in a fraction of the time that hard felt bobs needed.  And left a wavy furrow where the scratch line was.  But that wavy furrow was perfect.  Although it was even more of an eyesore that the original scratch!  My point here is that speed coupled with high pressure can make a tremendous difference in the results.  The same speed that is obtained form a half inch bob moving at 10,000 RPMs can also be obtained from a six inch circular pad moving at 1,500 to 3,000.  There is a formula for calculating the number of feet per minute of any point on the outer edge of the pad.  When you do the math you will see what I mean.  To obtain the same pressure it is necessary to minimize the contact area as much as possible and go to either a hard felt ring or a wooden ring.  I am still in the process of experimenting with this idea.  Although I have built what I call a Gyro Wheel that uses a hard felt ring with a six inch outer diameter and a four inch inside diameter.  The ring is about a half inch deep with a width of one inch.  The compound is applied as drops directly to the wheel that is then applied to a window which has been wet with soapy water or some other lubricant for polishing.  This quite effective at removing average hard water spots.  The compound can be an optical grade silica, a cerium, aluminum oxide, or even something more esoteric like diamond, tin, or even silicon carbide.  There are many different polishing powders out there.  Any of which can be formulated into a holding very thick compound. This is another part of the technology.  The particle.  Different particles will absolutely give you different results.  Take cerium for example.  It does most of its work by rubbing.  It also reacts chemically with glass surfaces.  Now diamond on the other hand along with silicon carbide cuts.  Each has particles with very sharp edges.  Each is also harder than glass.  However because of this diamond compounds have the tendency of leaving what I call an abrasion haze.  This might be invisible on overcast days or the shadowy side of the building, but will show up brilliantly in the direct sun.  Another interesting idea is to combine different powders to obtain varied effects.  Another idea is to create a wooden ring that is also six inches in diameter but has in inside diameter of five to five and a half inches.  This would greatly increase the pressure and hence the efficacy of the overall system.

As I continue to develop the technology of stain removal I will be writing about it.  Although not everything will be included in this blog, on my Surfaces Sub-Forum, in the WCBO, or any other publication for the Window Cleaning Industry.  Since my desire at this time as it always has been, is to establish my own newsletter which I will be publishing online.  It will focus on advanced techniques for removing and preventing hard water stains.

Written By Henry Grover Jr.

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Securing Restoration/Maintenance Contracts

Most of the time the customer doesn't really care what hard water deposits really are!  They only care what the cost will be to remove them.  They might also ask if the stains will come back and how soon. Not being able to give them a definitive answer to these questions will likely keep you from getting the job. After all, who really wants to spend ten or twenty thousand bux to clear their windows, only to have the stains come right back only one year later?

It is never a bad idea to come in like a consultant.  First show them that you can remove the spots.  Then give them a one page summary of their problem. People always car more about what you know when they know how much you care.   Explain in the report the system you would use to remove the spots. Explain that your system involves the use of safe polishing compounds and not deadly destructive acids.  Then explain that you will be using a hydrophobic sealant because you will not be removing the source of these spots (something you can't do).  So in time they will form again, on top of the sealant.  Explain that it is because of this that you must do some preliminary testing that might take up to a year.  This testing will help you to locate the correct hydrophobe for their building.  It will also help you to fine tune the exact restoration maintenance system for their building.  Which will also give you the knowledge to give them the best quote. Essentially you are telling them that you want to remove the stains as safely as possible, for as little as possible, and keep them off for as little as possible.  If you don't charge for this service, you could set up experiments all over town. Which could pay off in a very large way later.  How do we set up a test?

We do this by first locating at least three of the most intensely stained plates.  You could choose three plates from different parts of the building.  Totally clear every square inch of all three windows.  Next section off about six square sections per plate using some wide duct tape.  Now apply about six different hydrophobic sealants to each plate.  Make note on paper which sealants were used, and where they were applied to the windows.  Now remove the duct tape and clean the windows.  If you did this correctly pure water will bead up on each of the six different sections.  However it will sheet over not beading at all where the duct tape was.  Your first observation will be the size of the pure water beads or drops.  The drops that have the greatest contact angle (these will be the most round) will be sitting on the most hydrophobic sealant.  BUT. Possibly not the most long lasting!  Only time will tell that.  Next give all three windows at least three months. Then look for newly formed spots.  Clean the windows.  Look for any spots remaining. Take some four 0000 steel wool dry on just one dry window and see which sealant releases the new spots the easiest.  You might now give the other two test plates another three months.  Do the same thing on one of these windows. Lastly wait another three months and do the same on the last window.  If you had set up four windows at the beginning you would have another window to wait three more months on, giving you a complete year of testing.  This test is just a suggestion and an example.  You might have a better idea.  The bottom line however is to allow for the time necessary to determine exactly what kind of procedure you will need, to first remove the spots in as little time as possible.  Also to learn exactly what system you will need to use to remove any newly formed hard water spots. What sealants will be the most effective at resisting the high pH of the hard water drops and the Suns ultraviolet rays.  Also what sealant will most easily release any newly formed spots.

For more information on products and systems just send me an email.  Then we can work together.

Written by Henry Grover Jr.

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For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com   

Creating The Perfect Glass for Water Fed Pole Cleaning

Glass is naturally hydrophobic.  It loves water.  In fact it must be heated to 700 degrees to eliminate all molecular water from the surface.  The reason why areas of even a single window will bead water (hydrophobic) and some areas sheet water (hydrophylic) is that the surface of glass on a microscopic level is not of the same exact "smoothness". Some areas due to whatever, are much more rough, and hence have more surface area exposed to hold onto water.  Other areas are more smooth and will bead water.  I can make glass more hydrophylic or hydrophobic just by superpolishing with different sized superabrasive powders.  But this is time consuming. The easiest way to do it is to chemically react a water based silane with a specific functional group to the glass.  The functional group being hydrophobic or hydrophylic depending on what you want.  Unfortunately in order to accomplish this we usually have to dip into the halogen reserve.  That means using fluorinated and chlorinated hydrocarbon functional groups.  I have found one that works very well in water and leaves a hydrophobic surface.  But WFP guys want their water to sheet not bead.  This chemistry is much more difficult to locate. But how many more toxic chems do you want to dump into the Earth for cleanup later?  The best alternative would be to functionalize the entire outside plate of glass using green superabrasives before the window is put in the building.  In other words setting up the surface of the window for whatever cleaning procedure will be used after the building contract has been signed off.

Superabrasives that are based on particles in excess of five stand a chance of scratching.  But anything under this is typically safe.  At least for products like cerium oxide.  When using even a three micron polycrystalline diamond particle one must be cautious about the method of application.  The reason being that diamond can create an abrasion haze rather easily.  Nonetheless the different sized particles will create different types of smoothness.  Everyone has their own opinion of what is best for them.  Just look at how many people out there prefer Dawn over products like GG3 and GG4.  So you will need to try different compounds on different windows to compare with your WFP.  I suggest trying a nano compound of 1/10 of a micron, a one micron, and a 3 to 5 micron particle.  You can try cerium at first, then compare to other compounds.

I suggest using my invention the Gyro Wheel.  It will make your work much easier.  I am looking into ways to get this technology to you.  The gyro wheel can be used with a six inch disk or rings.  My preference is for the hard felt repositional rings.  The compounds are colored and come in syringes.

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Written by Henry Grover Jr.

For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com

Biodegradable Plastic

Biodegradable plastic is quite common.  Check out some of the plastics that can be made at home on the kitchen stove using such common ingredients as corn starch and glycerin.  Then we have other very interesting but very simple plastics like PVA (polyvinyl alcohol).  One company overseas has developed an entire line of water soluble plastics that will completely dissolve in water at different temperature ranges.  So each can be used for a different purpose.  They can all be completely recycled. Also if they were to be left outside they would completely dissolve in the rain with no harm to the environment.  Being made from nothing but carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen.  No halogens here!  By this I mean elements like chlorine and fluorine.

So.  As I continue to move ahead in developing products I will be exploring this line of materials quite intensely.  Personally I am very fascinated by this technology.  The idea of including them in the development of superabrasive compounds and superabrasive water soluble brush on coatings for polishing rings for mineral deposit removal;...excites me greatly.

I'll keep you all updated as I progress through my posts on this blog.  HOWEVER;...

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Written by Henry Grover Jr.

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Wiljer Textile/Cleaning Products

I just wanted to take a few minutes to write something about an amazing little company down in Mass that has been around for many years making window wetting sleeves for the window cleaning industry.  Richie Petrashewicz the owner has always been ready to help me out in whatever way he can by bringing my ideas to life.  When I first met Richie over the phone about twenty years ago I learned very fast how focused he was on servicing our industry.  I will never forget asking him to make me a six foot long sleeve.  I had developed a tool at that time for wetting any sized applicator and needed the biggest sleeve possible.  So he did it.  And I used it.  I will never forget the looks I got working my stores downtown main street.  From this came many other ideas.  All of which he satisfied.

He has come up with many different sleeves over the years, and has recently developed an entire line of flat applicator tools. The most recent sleeve for window cleaning that he calls the Wizzer is just perfect.  I hope I have spelled it correctly.  It has a green scrubbing section that runs the length of one side.  And is a white synthetic sleeve that holds just the right amount of water.  Definitely a tough sleeve too and made to last.  Richies company Wiljer was actually the first company to conquer the end wear out problem.  You know when the ends of the bar break through the sleeve?  So I am now using a Whizzer and loving it.  I will never go back to any other sleeve.  For cleaning windows I will remain with Wiljer forever.  And as I continue in product development you can be sure it will be a Wiljer Textile product that I will use.

To go to the Wiljer web site use www.wiljer.com

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Written by Henry Grover Jr.

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Green Product Development

As I continue to work on developing different products for Window Cleaners I have chosen to focus on ingredients and materials that do as little harm to the environment as possible. This will likely require that I divert my attention from the halogens to carbon based technologies.  Essentially the chemistry of life! Although it will also lead me down a trail that will teach me about all of the elements.  Even elements such as erbium and gallium.  They are all here on this planet for a reason.  Even arsenic.  Yet they are bound up with other elements in minerals buried in the ground.  Released over many years into the water.  People have sped this up by burning carbon based fuels.  Which have created acid rain.  This falls to the Earth, seeping into the ground, and breaks up the minerals there.  That releases elements such as arsenic and mercury from the natural mineral compounds that have kept them safely bound up for millions of years.  Once released they react with and become a part of the chemistry of life.  That leads to death.

The first step would be to determine exactly what I want to do.  Then to look at the planet to see how nature is doing the same thing.  Or if there are "things" out there that can be used for this purpose which will break down in a short enough time so they can be reabsorbed into the natural ecological order. Another concern would be how certain chemicals might affect the soil.  Since dirt or humus is actually alive with millions of different bacteria and fungi, it is critically important to consider how our chemicals would affect these.  When Jehovah created this world he did it in such a way that everything is finely balanced.  Our bodies are loaded with bacteria as an example.  However when we move one bacteria to a place in the body that it is not supposed to be, that bacteria can cause disease and even death.  The same is true of the ecosystem.  Since our Earth is like one huge organism.

This new way of creating products actually excites me because it will demand that I learn more about the ecology of the planet. I have a book I just picked up on Water.  Which the writer calls the blood of the Earth.  Interestingly enough when people began polluting the planet they began with the air and the rivers, lakes, and oceans.  Now the oceans are polluted with particles of plastic waste.  There is a reason we have sand.  It naturally cleans water.  But there are chemicals we can put in water that sand will not filter out. Water molecules can be broken down and reformed.  But they don't necessarily do this in nature. Water molecules are actually billions of years old.  The water molecules that you have in your body today were likely used by at least one other creature at some time in the past.  Maybe many creatures.  Likely even worms long ago dead and gone.  

If you study different Material Safety Data Sheets you will learn that certain ingredients do not have to be listed and identified with their Chemical Abstract Service Registry numbers if they are less than 1 percent of the overall mix or product.  That means over time literally millions of pounds of toxic chemicals can be dumped into the environment without any legal consequence to the manufacturers.  But there is of course a consequence to the ecosystem.  One that could have a direct effect on the health and life of those people, animals, insects, and bacteria living in that area.  Although now pollution has traveled around the globe.  So we experience the results of pollution on the other side of the planet.

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Written By Henry Grover Jr.

For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com

Water Activated Disks for Removing Hard Water Spots

This is a polishing disk that is coated with a water soluble polymer loaded with various superabrasive powders.  It works by releasing the polymer and superabrasive simultaneously when wet with water.  The first step is to apply a good amount of soapy water to a clean window surface that is stained by hard water spots.  Then start polishing with the W.A.D. or Water Activated Disk.  The polymer will start to break down with the water, releasing just the right amount of powder/slurry.  If you clear the glass with a squeegee after a minute you will see how much time is needed to remove the stains completely.  Then proceed with your work.  You can polish the entire window, then soap and squeegee for inspection.  If the window looks good you might fog it to see if all of the spots have been completely removed.  If they have you can seal the glass with whatever hydrophobe you choose.

WADs can be created from different water soluble polymers, and different polishing abrasive powders of varying particle types and sizes.  Even diamond can be used.  What is critically important along with the details just discussed, is the use of the right rotary polishing wheel.  The one I have developed is both gyroscopic and has a 12 degree (fail safe) variable shaft.  That is it has an outer edge that weighs much more than the rest of the wheel owing to six large holes cut around the center point.  It is six inches in diameter with a universal joint fixed between the wheel center point and the drive shaft that fits into the chuck of most any drill motor.  Also it is made from 1/4 inch aluminum alloy.  The hard felt rings and polishing disks used have a pressure sensitive adhesive to temporarily secure them to the bottom of the wheel.

The purpose of the wheel design is to remain flat on the glass at all times.  This completely eliminates what I call "the bobbing effect".  Which helps to eliminate the problem of abrasion haze, and maximizes the effectiveness and efficiency of the WAD.  Of course the same is also true if one were to use a polishing ring made from hard felt.  Such rings increase the contact pressure and so optimize the speed with which the polishing compond is able to remove the hard water spots.  Different compounds are applied directly to the contact surface of the rings a little at a time.  The window is copiously wet with soapy water.  The wheel is next put up to the window and turned on.  You should polish about a couple square feet at a time.  If you limit the amount of compound applied to the rings you will also limit how much will need to be removed from the window when done.  In most cases all you will need to do when done polishing is rewet the window with your cleaning solution and squeegee it off.  There should be virtually no messy compound left behind to remove.  This greatly reduces the amount of time to clear a window.  It also greatly reduces the amount of compound used per window, and hence the cost of product to completely clear each window.

This is a revolutionary new technology for removing hard water spots from window glass.  Owing to the fact that there are spots out there that will come off with a finger nail, and others that require a jackhammer;...each stain removal/restoration job will be different.  I do not foresee a one solution kit available any time soon.  Although I do see an enormous amount of room for product development.  Such as liquid coatings loaded with superabrasive powders that could be applied to different disks and rings.  Such would be water based of course and would dry to the touch within a few hours.  Once dry they could be put to use immediately.  A product like this would give both the manufacturer and the user fantastic diversity.  It is this type of product that I am now going to pursue.  If you would like to become a beta tester for any of the products mentioned in this post, or any others as they are developed;...please just send me your name and email.

Written by Henry Grover Jr.

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Developing A Window Cleaning Soap

The very best window cleaning soap is truly subjective.  Not everyone has the same likes and dislikes.  Although I will tell you this.  No one enjoys bleed.  No one wants a heavy film that leaves white lines in the direct sun.  And no one wants their blade to chatter across the glass.  I think everyone will agree with me on this.

So.  In order to eliminate bleed we must choose a molecule that will not break down the surface tension of water so much that the cleaning solution just runs out from the edge.  We test by cutting the solution with our squeegee and looking at the line of delineation.  The dry line or wet line.  Whichever you want to call it.  If it is straight you are good.  If it has legs then not. Next the film.  Typically long molecules will leave a film.  We like short molecules.  Maybe with chains of just four carbons long. If a surfactant turns to a white solid when left outside in fifty degree weather, this is not a good thing.  If it stays liquid down to ten degrees this is a good thing.  Your blade should not chatter if the surfactant breaks down the surface tension of water adequately.  This is also true of the slip products or chems out there.  TSP has a very short molecule.  It gives you tremendous slip.  No film.  However it will bleed like crazy. Sodium metasilicate or water glass is very similar.  Another slip chem. But enough on the slip chems.

It isn't possible to control the humidity in the air.  If the humidity is high your solution will cause your squeegee to glide better.  But when it is low your rubber will chatter more.  The bottom line is once again the length of the syn-det molecule.  If it is short you will leave very little film.  You see as the rubber moves across the glass your water solution evaporates behind the blade.  It only takes a split second.  But it does take time.  It might only travel out behind the blade by a tenth of an inch or so before it evaporates.  But as it evaporates a film is left.  Every time.  It is the length of the syn-det molecule that determines exactly how thick this film is.  The cleaner surface is always attained by using a short molecule.

Now that we have got this down we know where to go.  We want a single short molecule or a blend of different ones.  We need to break down the surface tension of water to just the right amount.  And we will want to generate just the right amount of sudz.  Certain surfactants will generate more sudz than others. Therefore you must choose the one that you want.

My job is to come up with a number of different surfactants of the four different families and let you mix your own to your own liking.  This will be a non ending work in progress.  But I will let you know as it develops.  Currently I am looking at many contenders.  And am even looking at fluorosurfactants or teflon soaps.  These have so far proven to be the most fascinating to work with. Although they are extremely expensive.  For that reason I see them as small add ins.  Not the main ingredient in the blend.

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Written by Henry Grover Jr.

For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com

Beta Testing Professional Cleaners

To be a better beta we need to look at many things.  I personally think sometimes we really don't know exactly why we like a certain product.  It just seems right.  I know I am like that. Years ago I liked a certain professional product called Sansco Window Cleaning Concentrate.  Used it for years.  It gave me fantastic slip for my blade, and enough sudz to see what I was doing.  Left a nice shine on the glass.  And smelled good too. Almost hypnotic.  But it cost over a hundred bux for a case of four gallons.  Compared to a bottle of Dawn at the local supermarket for three bux.  That worked quite well enough for me.  I tried many dish soaps over the years but settled on Dawn. I can make it more slippery by adding a little ammonia or a little sodium bicarbonate.  It leaves the least amount of film and cleans well.

After studying the different synthetic detergents somewhat I have started once again to experiment with the various families. Long or short chain, branched or not, various side chains, etc. They all have different properties.  Lets talk about some of these properties and what we might look for when testing.  I am now putting together a list of these which I will test first myself. Then I will be making samples available to the window cleaning industry as a service.  There will be a small cost since it cost me for samples, mailing, and takes time away from my own window cleaning business to do this.

Bleeding.  This is when the solution runs away from the edge of the window causing runouts into the clean dry glass.  You can test for this by wetting the window then running the squeegee down the middle.  This creates a line that seperates the wet side from the dry side.  No bleed means a perfect straight line.  Try this with a very powerful slip chem such as TSP.  You will get bleed.  Bleed is worse on wet days and varies from window to window.  Not all surfaces are the same.  The best way to cross compare different syn-dets is to use the same exact detergent concentration per gallon of water, test on the same day, use the same plate of glass, and completely rince your applicator every time.

Overlapping.  When performing the swirl motion or S curve you will be moving somewhat over dry areas. As you do this the blade will drag a little each time.  There are some detergents that give you enough slip to easily bridge the dry glass.  It tends to be that those which give you this extra slip also leave more of a haze. Some that don't might create streaks that can be seen quite well in the direct sunlight.  The key is to find a syn-det or syn-det chem blend that will give maximum  slip but not streak or leave a film.  

Sudz.  Some people absolutely abhor little bubbles.  Personally I like just enough.  So this test is purely subjective.  Although it is true that excessive sudz can be a real aggravation for several reasons.  Especially when detailing with your points having dog eared the channel ends you want nothing left.  Too much sudz will get in the way.

Cleaning ability.  Alkaline cleaners will clean glass more effectively than acid based cleaners.  This is because organic deposits on glass are acidic.  Cleaning solutions must neutralize in order to work.  Alkaline solutions neutralize acids.  Some syn-dets are more alkaline than others.  You might also want to add a slip chem which is highly alkaline.  Certain syn-dets will be much less affected by higher pH solutions than others.  So this also matters.

Beyond these things you will have your own likes and dislikes. But the bottom line here is the more you look at the better beta you will be.  So be a better beta.

Written by Henry Grover Jr.

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For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com

Beta Testing Plastee Gritt

Plastee Gritt abrasive is a urea powder of approximately 100 microns particle size.  Since it is made of plastic it is softer than glass and shouldn't scratch.  Even at this large particle size.  I suggest mixing it with various solvents such as Oil Flo from Titan Lab, or Goo Gone, or a DLimonene product which the WCR has samples of right now.  It can be applied to a small flat applicator and rubbed.  I have used it for removing water based paint that was very old.  I just mixed it with soapy water and it ate the paint right off.  I mixed it with the WCRs DLimonene product and put it on a paper towel on the tip of a pole and it ate off some old thick runs of tree sap in seconds.  I have glued it to a cloth, so as to make a type of plastic abrasive "sandpaper". Then put this "compopaper" on a flat applicator and knocked off shotgun fungi with a pole and soapy water.  The abrasive particles are just large enough, hard enough, and sharp enough to cut through most soft stuff.  Even silicone residue.  But they are softer than glass.  

If you do any testing please post your results on my SURFACES subforum in the garage section of the WCR Forum.

Also, if anyone would like any small samples of this Plastee Gritt just send your name, business name, and shipping address to my email henrygroverjr@gmail.com

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Written by Henry Grover Jr.

For product sales henrygroverjr@gmail.com

Using Diamond Particles

Diamonds are not just for beautiful women.  In fact I don’t think we would win favors if we were to give a lady a handful of the kind of diamonds I am thinking about.  She might think you were giving her a handful of grey ash from the wood stove. Further, if she sneezed she would cost you at least fifty bux.  Not good!
Of course I am talking about micro and even nanoscopic polycrystalline diamond particles which in pure form resemble a very dry grey powder.  This powder is used by various industries for cutting, grinding, polishing, and even superpolishing.  We are interested in the very last application.
There are several ways these little particles are used.  First they are put into different thick carriers to create custom compounds which are color coded to indicate average micron size and rated light, medium, or heavy.  These different weights have different prices.  Heavy being the most expensive.  Another way to use diamond powder is to create what is called a colloidal suspension.  This is like an extremely light compound made up mostly of water or some type of oil or hydrocarbon fluid with a detergent added to improve the suspension. Another use is to load different materials such as soft rubber-like polymers, or even different metals.  Another little trick involves binding particles with a glue to the surface of metals and plastic films.  One such application involves coating a 3 mil thick sheet of polyester film with different sized diamond particles making it possible to polish surfaces with just water.
The Diamond Clear Restoration System includes the use of all these applications.  It will grow over time as the technology for implementing the different applications becomes more varied and refined.

I have several reasons for attempting to go “all diamond”.  First I have had great success using diamond. Second it simply makes sense to me.  This is a particle that is so much harder than glass. It is also known to cut glass with ease.  Which is what polishing is all about.  Even superpolishing. Also the technology for creating nanoscopic diamonds is now quite common.  Brand new glass straight off the tin bath will have surface micropores about five microns across.  You could string fifty diamond particles (each being one hundred nanometers in size) from one side of a micropore to the other.
You will have difficulty eliminating abrasion haze if you use a three micron diamond particle.  Also a half micron diamond colloid will not effectively remove such a haze once formed. Further even though a half micron nano diamond will not leave a haze it is rather ineffective at removing stains.  From these simple facts it appears obvious that very specific techniques are required in using diamond to remove stains from glass.  This will be the subject of future research and product development. Which you will discover here first.  But only if you put your email address in the box to the right "Follow By Email".   

Written by Henry Grover Jr.

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Abrasion Haze

It is very important when removing hard water deposits from window glass to watch for abrasion haze.  This is the result of either the wrong polishing technique or the use of the wrong polishing medium, or both.  I have seen it so bad it was easily seen even on a cloudy day.  Although it is usually only visible in the direct sun.  Sometimes only at the right angle in the direct sun.  Second story windows are more likely to show it up.  It appears as many waves of zillions of microscopic scratches.  In any case however it is grounds for a lawsuit if the customer sees it.

The best way to avoid it is to always use any pad or polishing surface completely flat on the glass.  My new Gyro Wheel makes this very easy.  Next make sure your superabrasives are indeed opticaly safe.  One way to do this is to experiment with your "complete system" on a new mirror blank.  Then hit one half of the area polished with a solution of battery acid.  This is around a 37% solution of sulfuric acid.  You could also use a 1 to 2 percent solution of hydrofluoric acid.  These acids will greatly accent any scratches left behind by your polishing process.  The side of the polished area of the glass which has not been touched will serve as your control.  If you see any abrasion haze I personally would not use that system but rather look for another.

Another way to make absolutely sure you are safe after performing the mirror test is to do an on site test.  Do it on a bright sunny day.  If you are intending on doing second story windows wait until around two to three in the afternoon.  Then clear the stains off a two by two foot section of the window. Stand back about fifty to a hundred feet and look real close.  You shouldn't see any waves.

The greatest haze is usually caused by using circular pads turned on edge (ripping the surface).  Companies will do this using cerium oxide straight out of open containers.  By first wetting the window, touching the edge of the wet felt pad to the dry powder, then running the edge of the pad across the window.  This technique even if the cerium oxide is optical grade, will create severe abrasion haze.  Which can easily be completely invisible except in the direct sun.

I have many reasons why I would never suggest using acids that etch glass like hydrofluoric, sulfuric, or ammonium bifluoride. One of which is the fact that once someone has left an abrasion haze by ripping the glass, such damage can be greatly accented by the acid.  As I have shown by the first test sited.  Further, you will never know if such damage is present because it has been hid/covered over by new hard water deposits.  The customer might never have even noticed it when the stains were removed the first time with the cerium.  But now this damage is very visible.  The customer will then be able to easily see it. And you will be held accountable for "scratching" the windows.

Written by Henry Grover Jr.
henrygroverjr@gmail.com

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Functionalizing Glass Surfaces

Cleaning windows is just the beginning.  Chemistry and nanotechnology now allow us to completely change the physical and electrical properties of window glass.  This is known as functionalizing.  What are the benefits?

             First we can give glass a “rain guard”.  The surface is made hydrophobic.  Such a treatment is desirable for vehicles as it greatly improves visibility in rain storms.  It is also great for greenhouses.  Choosing the right chemical and knowing how to best apply it is critical to longevity and performance.

Gaurding glass from stains can be done using specialized hydrophobic treatments.  Hard water spots from concrete efflorescence, and sprinkler systems (ground water) can be a real problem as they take away from the aesthetics of the building.

Invisible scratch/mar guards work well on high traffic doors, entryways, high profile exterior glass, and mirrors.  These also are hydrophobic and help with routine cleaning.

Hydrophylic (water loving) reactive coatings are great for antifog properties on bathroom mirrors and certain windows.  These treatments also make it easier to clean the outside of high windows using a water fed pole.

Another  very interesting application for hydrophobic treatments of mirror glass is what I call peekaboo stenciling.  It is possible to create images and lettering on bathroom mirrors that are completely invisible until the mirror is fogged.  But when the fog goes away so does the image.  This process will repeat forever.  It is permanent over the life of the mirror if cleaned correctly.  It is a great advertising idea that works especially well for motels and hotels.  These could even sell small mirrors with their logo, name,  phone number, and website to their customers for advertising purposes. 

For this matter even hair salons might be interested in doing this on small four by four inch mirrors that they could pass out to their best customers.  Young girls especially find this fascinating.  They would keep the mirror in their hand bag.  Then they would show their friend by taking it out and breathing on it. 

The idea  even works on ice box glass doors.  Every time they are opened they fog up.    Anything can be advertised such as ice cream or anything else that must be kept frozen.  There are likely many other ideas for functionalized glass that can be explored.

Written By Henry Grover jr.

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Properties of Micro & Nanoscopic Particles

The abrasives industry is a many faceted animal.  The technology of creating particles used in polishing hard surfaces has advanced tremendously over the last several decades.  Currently we can manufacture particles measured not just in microns but in nanometers.  A single nanometer is a thousand times smaller than a micron.  The average sized micro-pore of a glass surface is five microns across.  So a ten nanometer particle would be five hundred times smaller than this.  More than size we must consider hardness.  There is also morphology (shape) which is typically controlled by the crystal structure.  Which in turn is controlled by the chemistry.  The property of agglomeration is something to consider as well.  This simply means that the individual particles tend to ‘ball up’.  Such larger agglomerates can create scratches.  Then there is the purity rating.  Powders rated  99.9 percent pure are not at all uncommon.  Next to be considered is the friability of the particle.  In other words, will the particle break up when put to work?  If it does at what pressure and to what size?  This is a very useful property since it allows the user to remove much surface initially then finish with a much smoother surface.  It is also true that friable particles will have new edges for better cutting and refinishing.  There is also the property of chemical reactivity which requires a knowledge of what type of surface the powders will be used on.  Even if the particles will not react directly with the surface forming covalent or even trivalent bonds; they still could be adsorbed onto the surface ionically.  In other words they could be affected by what is otherwise called hydrogen bonding.  One more question to be answered is have these particles been functionalized?  That is has some chemical or chemicals been reacted with the outer surface of the particles so that they are now much more water miscible or oleophilic?  As you can see there is much to consider when looking for a particular particle for a certain formulation or product.  This is a new kind of “particle zoo”!  Lets first consider polycrystalline synthetic diamond particles.  Soda lime flat glass surfaces are rather soft compared to diamond.  Everyone knows that diamond cuts glass.  Just look at how sharp those particles in the above picture are!  Since diamond has a mohs hardness of nine compared to that of glass (which is only seven), you can see how effective these particles  are in resurfacing windows.                                       

There are other abrasives out there too.  Such as cerium oxide, silica, aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, cubic boron nitride, and many more.  All of these posses many different properties.  So there are literally thousands of different abrasives that someone can choose from.  Product development can be rather time consuming because of all the experiments that must be run.  Which includes field testing.  Let me give you an example.

Early on I began experimenting with removing hard water spots from windows using many different abrasives.  I learned real fast that particles  must be at least as hard as glass.  They have to be under five microns in size with a purity rating of 99.9 percent.  No agglomerates.  Also certain diamond abrasives didn’t work any better than other abrasives when used in a paste or slurry.  At least on mineral deposits from concrete and hard water.  Yet there were other stains such as those formed from solutions of sodium metasilicate and sodium carbonate that would only yield to diamond compound and paper towels by hand.  

Written By Henry Grover Jr.

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Window Glass Inspections

From almost invisible seriously failed insulating glass units to missing low e coatings, thumbprints and dessicant outgassing in between low e units, negative deflection from leaked argon gas, uncleanable tempered surfaces, reflective distortions of tempered glass, etched surfaces from previous power washing, mineral deposits, scratch damage, weld splatter, chemically crazed and or hazed plexiglass or lexan surfaces;...the list just goes on.  The inspection of window glass is a highly specialized expertise.  But certainly not one that is not needed.  Anyone selling, buying, or building a home or business property could potentially lose many thousands or tens of thousands of dollars due to the cost of replacing such defective units.  Most times it is necessary to have every window in a home professionally cleaned and then professionally inspected on a bright sunny day before any of these defects can be identified.  The Real Estate Agent will always defer to the Home Inspector for all inspection services.  Then the Home Inspector ‘might’ call in other more specialized inspection service professionals if a need is determined.  Owing to the potential cost of replacing damaged or defective windows it only makes sense for the seller, buyer, or builder to make this request to the Home Inspector.  You will need to ask them to have the windows professionally cleaned and then inspected.  The reason is very simple.  That this is almost never done.
When I clean windows I always perform this service free of charge.  I see it as an absolutely essential service on brand new buildings.  Owing to the fact that there is always a full one year warranty on the entire building.  So if you have any defective or damaged windows you can have them replaced free of charge.  If you wait longer than a year you might own them.  It is a very common practice for owners to have a home or commercial building constructed only to clean the windows years later.  This is especially the case for franchise owners.  Over the last three decades plus of cleaning windows I have taken on many new building/commercial accounts, and cleaned many new homes.  In every single case I have uncovered both damaged and defective windows and glass.Most times I can work with the contractor from start to finish to prevent any damage and identify any defects.  This always saves the contractor both time and money.  Defective windows that are discovered early can be replaced at no cost to the contractor and replaced before the time of installation for a timely completion of the project.  If damage is done inadvertently during construction, at times this can be repaired.  Which again will save the contractor.  The contractor will also want to store the glass in such a way that damage does not result. Once the building is complete the windows and mirrors should be maintained to ensure protection.  For example scratches can be removed and prevented.  I call this scratch and abrasion maintenance.  Not every window cleaner offers this service.  I have noticed that franchise restaurants are routinely hit by errant scratches.  Which is certainly not a structural defect but it does take away from the overall beauty of the room.  Simply because little patches of scratches end up looking like food stuff stuck to the glass.  These scratches can be removed and prevented with the right tools and technique.

Written by Henry Grover Jr. 

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