Locating S4 Coated Glass

This thin film coating is based on tin oxide and silver oxide.  It is applied to the fourth surface of an IG unit and so is exposed to the inside of the building.  It is a second low e coating and is used many times in the north to increase the amount of  heat from the sun that is captured during the day.  It is difficult to locate since it isn't that visible.  But since we are always in direct contact with it when we are cleaning the most important thing to know is we should NEVER use a razor blade on it.  Also if there is paint on it we need to know what products to use that will not do any harm.  I am in the process of developing these products.  One of which is a superabrasive plastic powder that can be blended with organic solvent like the essential oils or others.  One of which is in my car right now waiting for testing.  If you would like to learn more about S4 coated IG Units please check out this article from Mathews Brothers Windows. 

 https://mathewsbrothers.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/2016_2_S4-alt-layout.pdf

Also check out this video I made on locating S4 coatings.  I call it Squeek or no Squeek.

The most important thing to remember is to Know where these coatings are.  Which should be done at the time of construction when the home or building is constructed.  If you do find them they need to be protected  by removable plastic film.  This will guard against most anything except a hammer.

Henry Grover Jr.

henrygrover222@gmail.com

A Very Close Look At Steel Wool

 We use it all the time.  To remove heavy dirt, light hard water spots, aluminum screen stain, paint specs, silicone caulk fingerprints, minwax, and wood stain from windows.  But have you ever seen a video of how it is made?

The fibers of 0000 steel wool are between 15 and 20 microns in thickness.  They are just as hard as glass.  About 7 on the mohs scale.  And have a three sided cross sectional shape.  So each has three cutting edges.  Hence the fibers of steel wool as razor sharp.  This is why it is so good at cleaning.  It is just like using a billion razors.  

But remember.  According to our study of the PIF even very fine scratches much start with an impact crack.  Therefore since the microscopic edges drag across the surface they cannot create a PIF.  Which means the wool must dislodge and drag particles from the glass surface to do this.  First the impact crack (PIF), then by dragging the dislodged particle, the scratch is created!  Crack, drag, scratch.

Steel wool oxidizes very easily.  Once I put some in my pocket with a cell phone that had exposed terminals.  I felt my leg get really hot.  Pulled out the wool which was on fire.  The water bucket was two feet away.  Fortunately.  This is why an acidic cleaning solution will make the wool rust and leave red streaks all around a white plastic window frame.  If this happens just change out your water with a few gallons of distilled from the store.  Just carry some with you for residential trad work.

Now.  Different fiber based clothes can be very interesting to use.  Like microfiber cloths made for glass.  Or other hard plastic fiber clothes that are softer than glass.  Like the melamine plastic pads that we call magic sponges.  They are white, very soft, but chew off all kinds of stuff.  Because they have been made with holes that are about 20 microns.  Same sized hole as the thickness of 0000 steel wool!  No particles.  They have a mohs hardness of about 5.5.  Very cool ehhh?

There is a lot of room here for discover.  The playing field belongs to you!

Henry

henrygrover222@gmail.com

You Are All IGSA Consultants !

IGSA is the International Glass Smart Association.  If you read the Glass Smart Blogspot you are a member.  I have been writing this for over ten years.  It has recieved almost 178 thousand views.  Up to 5 thousand per month.  I am expecting over 10 thousand views per month by July based on my stats and business contacts.  Within a year from now it will go far beyond this because I will be branching out into other international organizations related to the development of and maintenance of glass products.  Currently there are 232 posts.  

It is focused on the Window Cleaning Industry but anyone can view the posts.  The goal is to develop the technology of  products and care of window glass.  Further, to do this by educating window cleaners.  To develop a body of window cleaners internationally who are indeed glass smart.  And to give them the tools and informational contacts through specialty educational organizations to accomplish this.  I believe the numbers listed above and the content of the blog has proven that I have already accomplished that.  The blog and the Glass Smart Products YouTube page are totally focused on this.

So yes.  You who read and use the information of the Glass Smart Blogspot are in fact IGSA Consultants.

Would you like an IGSA sticker?

Henry

henrygrover222@gmail.com

Exposing IG Unit Seal Failure

Yes.  Exposing seal failure.  Not what it is.  Because you know that!  And if your customers don't you can explain it easily enough.  But.  What really needs to be exposed here is the unbelievable frequency of this problem.

Just did a job a month ago with IG units.  They were all from possibly the seventies.  Only about a quarter inch vac in between the two plates.  I didn't find a single one that had failed.  Could not believe it!

Fast forward to the present time about 50 years later.  Technology has dramatically increased the space in between.  More insulation so this is better!  Right?  Wrong!  And we now have triple units along with many other new high tech "advances".  The seals are blowing out left and right.  Windows are fogging in front of our eyes.  When I built my house I told them, look guys I am a window cleaner of many many years.  Do NOT put IG units in.  So they didn't listen to me.  After only a single year half had lost their seals.  Warrantees will only pay for the units.  Not the replacement cost.  And are usually only good for one year.  Unless you pay big bux.  Then you can get protection for 5, 10, 15, and maybe 20 years.  No one wants to contribute to your grief however.  And still your warrantee will only pay for the windows.

Want to know the real crap shoot?  Windows can come straight from the manufacturer with bad/failed units!  Which are impossible to identify since the vapor captured inside is rather minimal.  Over time you will definitely see it.  The problem can be detected with a block of dry ice.  But who knows this and knows how to do it properly?  And who wants to spend the time to do it?  Definitely NOT the glorified Home Inspector.      

You know windows can come straight from the manufacturer with smoked insides.  That can only be seen in the direct sun next to a perfect window when both have been perfectly cleaned.  Windows can come with huge oily thumbprints in between,  Swirls and streaks from improper cleaning during the manufacturing process.  And one man told me last week, that he seen a big old fat dead bug in between.

Another problem I have detected is the absence of the Low E coating.  My customer was charged for it but never got it.  I am sure the window sales company was sure they were selling Low E windows.  But had no clue exactly how to make sure of this.  And no desire to learn how.  So the burden falls on the customer.

One last failure that I don't want to miss here.  Ever see that pink spotted look in the direct sun?  This is the damage condensation will do to a Low E coating.  It is in between.  Can't be fixed.  Can start almost invisibly.  But unless the building owner has the windows cleaned by a Glass Smart professional window cleaner they will not even have a clue what they are looking at.  They might even think they just have a dirty window.  Or a dirty window that they just can't seam to rub clean.

So get out there and EXPOSE!

Copy/Paste this article and send it out to all your customers on your email list.

Email me with any questions at henrygrover222@gmail.com 

Henry/Hank your choice

Practice Total Glass Care and stop the PIF!

A PIF stands for Point Indent Fracture.  And EVERY scratch starts with one.  Even light scratches.  A PIF also does not have to include a scratch.  But PIFs can be rather dangerous.  Especially the larger ones that look like bug crap and have crack legs.  Which a digital field microscope will show.  You can get one between 50 and 100 USD that will connect to your phone with an app off the net for free and allow you to store the images or videos.  This is what I did for some of my earlier posts on this blog. 

No one wants or needs a PIF!  Especially when the window costs 10 K to replace!  Most people don't know the PIF is a PIF or even what it is or how dangerous it can be.  So they try to rub it off.  This can cause the window to crack in at least two large pieces in about a microsecond.  A kid could walk by and press on it out of curiosity.  Same thing.  Not good!  My brilliant idea (maybe) would be to slap a vinyl sign over it advertising something.  Out of sight out of mind the saying goes.

So every time you clean windows look for those PIFs.  And always bring them to the attention of the owner.  You might end up saving them thousands of dollars.  This is what Total Glass Care is all about.  And while I am at it.  Lets make the windows more slippery so they don't incur any scratches.  No scratches no PIFs remember?  Well this is another topic for another post on this blog.  But let me say this to get your attention.  Ordinary dish soap can prevent scratches.  If you do it right.  But you would not want this answer.  The soap comes off in rain and the effect is lost.  Now certain hydrophobic sealants also work well.  But they too will wear off.  Some other products will not.  Want to go down this trail with me?  Then stay tuned.  Or write me at henrygrover222@gmail.com 

Practice Total Glass Care and stop the PIF!

Henry

700 dollars per window?

Yes.  And maybe more.  If the window cost two thousand to replace.  And you are the only one that can safely remove the stain, etch, scratches, concrete sealant, paint, hard water spots, and so on.  There are so many windows now that simply cannot be scraped without leaving scratches.  Windows with defective surfaces and windows with low e titanium dioxide coatings.  There are many metal coated windows like this out there.  None of them can take a razor without scratching, unlike smooth glass.  Many have coatings that are so transparent they are almost impossible to locate.  What happens when this kind of window is coved with silicone caulk, paint, or something else?  According to GANA the window is essentially wasted!  In other words it is in need of specialty restoration work.  And you can almost name your price.  Depending on whether you have the answer and what the window cost to replace!

I remember running into a building in PA once that had been treated with a silane concrete sealant.  Every window was covered with this sealant.  It could not be scraped.  Because the razor would not remove the sealant.  Simple enough.  This was one of those specialty restoration jobs that I just mentioned.  It could have been safely restored/cleared with a cerium oxide and a rotary polishing pad/machine.  But instead hydrofluoric acid was used.  For a "quick fix".  The dark glass was severely etched.  It became wavy and dimpled.  Fourth stage dynamic etching.  Now the glass could NOT be restored.

To restore the building properly each window would have required at least a solid hour to efficiently and completely clear.  Then the glass would have needed a hydrophobic glass sealant.  But that didn't happen.

A Glass Smart Technician would have been able to perform the work without completely wasting every window beyond repair.  If this building were under the care of such a company the problem would have never happened.  Because the owners would have consulted with that window cleaner before contracting out the work of sealing the concrete.

So go out there and make money.  But more importantly educate your existing customers.  Protection believe it or not is actually more profitable most times.  Because by pricing by the square foot to apply the proper glass sealant, coupled with minimal time per window, your profit per hour can be substantial.  Especially if you repeat every six months or once a year.

Send me an email and we can talk more.  Would you like to know more about the specialty uses for cerium oxide?  Where to buy a good brand?  What you should pay?  And how to use it efficiently?  Then keep attentive to these posts.  I will be writing a lot about the use of specialty superabrasive powders like cerium oxide.  Especially now that I am working with the Window Cleaning Resource (WCR) officially.

Henry Grover Jr.

henrygrover222@gmail.com

Total Glass Care Not Just Cleaning Windows!

We all can all do much more than clean windows.  We can Inspect and Protect.  As an example.  When cleaning windows who of us can ignore negative deflection?  It is SO obvious when using a six inch razor and even a squeegee.  But the building/home owner will never know they have it.  Unless we bring it to their attention.  Look at this simple test for negative deflection.

The blog and email listed at the end of this video do not exist anymore.  Rather use 

henrygrover222@gmail.com

Most windows do not have this problem right out of the window factory.  It can develop over 20 years.  And results when the vapor inside escapes with nothing to replace it.  But it can be a problem from the factory.  If it is discovered within the first year after the window has been purchased then the owner has the right to have it replaced free of charge.  At least the replacement window should not cost anything.

Why should a window with negative deflection be replaced?  Why is it defective.  Simply because it could implode.  The opposite of explode.  But the result is the same.  When the deflection becomes great enough and the atmospheric pressure is just right, you might clean the window and hear a bang minutes after.  This happened to a good friend.  The homeowner blamed him.  But when he did the research he was able to explain to the customer exactly what really happened.

All scratches start with what is called a Point Indent Fracture or a PIF.  We all have seen small indent fractures that look like bug poop.  If you do NEVER try to rub it off with the end of your applicator using pressure.  It might grow a crack leg and spread out in a microsecond.  This happened to me.  My "point" is that PIFs on a negatively deflected surface are especially dangerous!

All of this information pertains to the physical integrity of the window.  Which is information that can be brought to the owners attention should it be discovered. Because something can be done about it most times. Hence the expression Inspect and Protect.  You get the point.  We are more than window "cleaners".  We are Total Glass Care Technicians.  TGCTs.  Or Glass Smart.  S.urface M.aintenance A.nd R.estoration T.echnicians

Henry Grover Jr.

henrygrover222@gmail.com

Removing Vinyl Signs from Windows

 It is a very difficult job to remove large area signage from windows.  Even with a Triumph Scraper which I consider the very best.  The I use a six inch and the blade is very flexible.  This is important because most window glass is somewhat concave.

In approaching the job you will want to clean the window first.  Then apply one of the best products out there to soften and "move through" the vinyl to the opposite side.  Once wet leave the chemical there for between fifteen to twenty minutes.  Then start an edge and pull with you hands.  Use thin rubber gloves to keep your hands away from the chemical/product.  Pull VERY SLOW!  You will notice that even very old vinyl will become flexible from the chemical.  If it tears just start again and keep on pulling.  If you have high windows to do get a ladder that will bring you right up to the sign.  That way you will not have to rip off one inch strips with your pole.

If you do not use a chemical/product the vinyl will break off in small pieces and will take much longer to get it all off.  I just did a job today and was able to actually peal off an entire six square feet at once in about three minutes.  I could see where the chemical had soften the vinyl enough so it "rippled" but still remained intact.  That is the goal.  Because every time you have to start pealing again it takes more time.  Pricing should be by the square foot always. 

I am currently collecting the names of products and chemicals to do this type of work, and am making that available to anyone who is a member of IGSA.  IGSA membership is very easy to acquire.  First it is free.  Next you must read this blog.  Which is the only way you will get the information that will give you the edge over your competition where you live.  There is no other way.  BUT You will need to send an email to me so I can put you on my email list to send you the names of all the products and chemicals that are being referenced here.  Along with the companies that are selling them.

So it is up to you.  Send me your email and get on the IGSA email list.

Henry Grover Jr.

Glass Smart 

henrygrover222@gmail.com

  

Testing Superabrasive powders and Compounds for Potential Scratching Problems

There are so many products on the market now that are based on every type of superabrasive.  From diamond to aluminum oxide.  They are of every hardness rating, size, purity rating, shape, and chemical functionality.  We have nano particles, and micron sized particles.  There is a particle zoo out there.  Window cleaners use these products for removing scratches, blemishes, organic and mineral deposits, etched glass surfaces, and even cleaning.  There is also no limit to the different applications of such products!

The largest problem that we have when using these products on glass is scratches.  The reason can be that the product uses superabrasive particles that are as hard as or harder than glass.  Or they are too "sharp".  Or that they are not "pure" enough.  Meaning that even as little as one percent have particles more than 3 microns.  Superabrasive cerium oxide powder for example should be between 2.6 and 3 microns particle size at 99.9 percent purity.  The white ceriums are the most pure.  Although.  The application method can make all the difference.  If you are using the correct cerium for example with a spin pad on a rotary machine turned at an angle, so you are ripping into the glass with the edge of the pad;...you will leave waves of zillions of micro-scratches that will become visible in the direct sun.  Second story windows will show this effect easier than first story.  It is also true that when removing stains the mineral substance of the stains can interfere with the results of your superabrasive product.  I have tested products and techniques together on windows in the field before.  But on a very limited basis.  And with the approval of the customer.  The test I am describing here is only to test your product and technique.

I chose to use a mirror for this test.  Although others have used plate glass such as saphire glass they purchased brand new.  And once tested would view the plate in the direct sun at different angles and distances.  Without hydrofluoric acid.  My test uses a mirror, with hydrofluoric acid of at least one and a half percent, and in the dark with a flashlight. HF is a rather dangerous chemical.  Sulfuric acid also will work.  Either way wear goggles and rubber gloves if you chose to do the test.. OR call me and I will do the test for you.  Or might have already tested your product.

My test involves purchasing a new mirror.  Then using the product in question just like you would on your job.  You then should wet only half the area you worked on with your superabrasive product.  You could tape off half the area.  Next clean the mirror with just soapy water and a squeegee.  Take it into a totally dark room and look down the beam of a flashlight at the mirror.  If there are any scratches showing as errant scratches or waves of micro-scratches, you will see them rather easily.  They might even be visible on the side of you work area that did not make contact with the acid.  But will definitely be very strongly visible on the side that did make contact with the acid.

This is a very difiinitive test and will serve you well.  

There are may different products available out there.  As I continue to write about the many hundreds of tests I have and am developing, I hope you can use them to your advantage.  I will also be making these different products available to you if you are a member of IGSA.  But only if you are a member.  So I advise you to communicate with me by email so I can put you on my email list.  One that I should have started so very many years ago!

Henry Grover Jr.

henrygrover222@gmail.com 

Testing Mineral Acids for Glass Surface Safety;...The Five Tests

If you want to learn exactly what mineral acids are go here.  Mineral Acids Wikipedia  You will learn exactly what a mineral acid is and what are some of the strongest ones.  As window cleaners we have used certain ones like hydrochloric, phosphoric, hydrofluoric, nitric, and sulfuric.  These are five of the strongest.  We also have products intended to remove mineral deposits (hard water spots) that are based on some of these very powerful acids.  They are all dangerous.  They can blind you, burn and strip your skin from your hands, and do extreme harm to your lungs.  Just read the MSDS (SDS) for any one of them.  Do a search by typing in the acid along with MSDS or SDS.  What you can't easily learn is which ones will do little to no harm to glass surfaces.  Which ones will have no effect at removing hard water spots from glass.  Which ones can potentially do very bad damage to glass surfaces under different circumstances.  And which ones have been blended into commercial products for removing hard water spots from window glass.  Because they have not been included under the ingredients section of the MSDS for the commercial product in question.

Now none of us want to chance doing harm to our own or another persons body.  So we would want to  stay away from powerful acids like these for this reason alone.  Regarding the potential harm that an acid or an alkali (base) can have on glass however, this is something that many window cleaners wonder about.  The reasoning they follow is rather simple.  If I can protect myself from any physical harm of a certain chemical or product, and know in advance that there is no chance that it will destroy the windows I am attempting to restore, then why not use it?  I would say of course the choice would be yours.  But you can absolutely know this.  That the results you might get from the same exact product, can be different from one window to the next.  One the same building, and even on the same plate of glass!

On this last note we must ask another question.  How can we know that the chemical or product absolutely could not and would not do any damage to the glass surface?  Is it even possible to get close to an answer?  

When I started down this road decades ago I got out the books and started doing research.  I asked different manufacturers.  And quickly discovered there were no absolute answers.  So I started buying acids, products, and new glass test plates from the local glass shop.  Then I started doing my own experiments.  I let my imagination run.  What I learned from these flights was amazing!  Things that no other window cleaner or book could tell me.  Then I started traveling to buildings that had been chemically wasted.  I would like to tell you some great stories some day!  Went home and was able to duplicate the damage using the same products and chemicals.  It was fascinating.

The bottom line is that I was able to develop many different tests and standards that could plainly tell me in advance exactly which products and chemicals were most likely "safe" and which were not.  With these tests and standards I didn't need any other knowledge from any source.  The tests served as my own personal compass.

With this knowledge you will never have to ask anyone any questions about any new product.  YOU become the authority.  That is what I am now working on with IGSA Tests and Standards.  I am working on developing an open association of window cleaning consultants within the window cleaning industry worldwide.  IGSA stands for International Glass Smart Association.  And Smart stands for Surface Maintenance And Restoration Technology.  You will find the very first of these tests here.  If you have any further questions please send me an email.  

TESTING MINERAL ACIDS FOR GLASS SURFACE SAFETY

There are five basic tests for this.  From which I am sure others will follow.

#1 The Ripple Test;...Tools are necessary for doing anything.  Coupled with a sharp mind they can be extremely effective!  There are certain mineral acids like HF that are very effective at eating through and sloughing off a layer of glass.  I call this the ripple effect.  Anything such as a hard water spot will accent the power of the acid and speed up this effect.  It begins by drawing a single line on a clean glass plate with a paint marker.  Let it dry in a minute.  Then wet the glass with the chemical in quest for a few minutes, and rub away the paint.  Soap and squeegee then look at the surface in the direct light.  I like using a mirror and bring it outside in the direct sun.  You will be able to see where the paint line was.  It will show up as a transparent ripple.

Another way to look for the ripple is to put a small 4 X 4 inch piece of clean glass half way down in a cup of the chemical in question.  Leave it there for a few minutes.  Then remove it, clean it, and look for a ripple at the air/liquid interface.  If there your chemical created a stage four dynamic etch.  The ripple can be presented in court.

#2 The Scratch Test;...This also comes with some rather simple tools.  Not leaving out a sharp mind.  Take a clean mirror.  6 X 6 inches is good.  Create a patch of scratches in the middle.  Then apply the chemical to ONLY one half of the scratches.  You can protect one half with some Duct tape if you chose.  Apply the chemical in question to one half of the scratch patch.  A minute is plenty of time.   Now rinse off your chemical in a stream of water.  Dry the mirror.  Take it into a dark bathroom.  Look at the patch with a flashlight by looking down the beam of light.  Certain acids will cause stage two statin etching of the scratches leaving behind white crystals in the trough of each scratch.  So the scratch patch becomes forty times more accentuated.  But ONLY the side that made contact with the acid or product in question.

#3 The Vapor Test;...Take a plastic bowl and put your chemical in question in the bowl after heating it.  Just enough to create a vapor on a plate of glass.  A cool or room temperature plate will help the vapor to form.  Flip the plate over if a mirror so the glass side is facing the chemical.  Or just put the glass down on top off the bowl.  If an etch occurs this will show up as a cloudy white affect.

#4 The Drag Test;...Take a plate of glass and clean it well.  Then wipe on and rub in your chemical in question for about a minute.  You can tape off one side if you want to be certain there is no contamination.  Next clean and dry.  Then lightly run a dry fingertip across the entire dry surface.  If any etching has occurred the side that made contact with your chemical will be much more rough if etching has resulted.

#5 The Water Microdrop Test;...Take a new plate of glass/mirror and clean it well.  Tape off half and apply your chemical in question to only half the plate for about a minute.  Clean and dry with no contamination.  Next apply pure water to the entire surface (both sides).  If etching has occurred the water should fully sheet over the side that made contact with your chemical. The surface has become hydrophylic.  This effect will dramatically also change the size of microdrops caused by a foggy film.  The drops will be MUCH smaller on the side that came into contact with the chemical.  Your tools must be more "scientific" however.  I suggest at this time that you purchase for around 60 to a 100 dollar hand held lighted 40X magnification microscope.  It should also use a free app so you can send videos and pictures to your smart phone.  If you do this please post them to the WCR Community Forum.  I would love to see them and have others see too!

Now you have everything that I have!  There is no reason why you should be using destructive acids in your work that could potentially cause the loss of your business.  And there is absolutely no reason why anyone should get away with telling you an untruth.

If you want to perform any of these tests you know how to do it.  If however you would like me to personally perform any of them for any reason on any surface just let me know.  They are also very effective on low e surfaces too.  But not all.  Simply because most low e surfaces have a titanium dioxide coating.  Which is a radically different surface than glass.  Check out my GSP Logo at the top of this blog.  It shows the different elements/atoms that make up all soda lime window glass.

If you would like to know more about the IGSA Tests just send me a question at henrygrover222@gmail.com

    Tests and Standards

Written by Henry Grover Jr.

Explosive Profits with a Glass Protection Maintenance Service!

From what I have learned from other window cleaners the product NG1010 from Nanovations USA is one of the very best DIY aftermarket glass sealers on the market.  As soon as the spring starts again I am going to personally start presenting this to my current window cleaning customers.  Bottom line there is WAY more money to make applying this product than just cleaning windows, removing scratches, or removing hard water stains.

I have heard of other window cleaners making 150 USD in a single hour.  And sometimes much more.  Priced by the square foot.  One sliding glass door can be done in 15 minutes at 75 USD.  That would be about five dollars per square foot.

Sometimes you might want to remove some very light stains.  Or just do a very quick polish with some cerium oxide.  There are ways to test the surface with a fogger once you have polished with a cerium slurry.  A well polished surface will react better and really hold on to the stain.  Allowing a complete SAM "Self Assembled Mono-Layer" to form. 

Watch this video/test that Marc Tanner performs on an inside fountain at a Mall in Florida.  It runs 24 hours a day nonstop.  Marc is unbelievable!  He has so much experience and is so very innovative.  Another good friend that I treasure having as a part of my little master mind group.  Although the truth is that we have SO many of these people.  I have started some years ago to introduce such ones to our industry through my Glass Smart YouTube Channel and this blog.  As I come into product development, continue to work on my You Tube again, write this blog, and begin publishing a report/white paper on testing and standards for my association IGSA, I hope to continue to help our industry.  It has served me well for 44 years now and given me much joy through the people I have come to know because of it.  Now we are moving into 2025 and it will be 45 years.

The best application opportunities are of course inside because there is no possible degradation to the NG1010 coating from UV radiation.  But it is still a worthy test on a fountain with continuous hard water.  This next test by Nick Evans will leave you in total disbelief.  You will be convinced as I am.

Check out this next video made by Nick Evans of  Glass Genius located in New Zealand.  And pay very close attention to the numbers that he explains!  Nick is a good friend even though he lives on the other side of this planet!  And truly is a glass genius.

Nanovations USA

I have personally proven that the NG1010 product is very effective at helping to protect from scratches.  So it would be very easy to sell to the service for inside partition glass, shower doors, large sliding glass doors, and mirrors.  

It is a perfect product too for creating "invisible images" and lettering for advertising on bathroom mirrors.  The process is simple.  Just high speed polish with a cerium slurry, clean, apply a computer cut vinyl mask, apply NG1010, and remove the mask.  When the mirror fogs, the image and message magically appears.  When the fog disappears the image and message disappear.

Any more questions just ask,

Publishing IGSA Testing and Standards

Written by Henry Grover Jr.

If you would like to join the International Glass Smart Association  (IGSA) just send me an email.

henrygrover222@gmail.com

 

Overcoming Water Fed Pole Limitations

There are many severe limitations of a WFP.  They are very well known by almost everyone.  But are universally ignored because of the extreme advantages of this kind of work.  So I won't list them out in this small article.  Rather I prefer to address a few of the ways we have had success in getting around some of them.

Ordinary heavy dirt can be removed by using a flat scrub pad made of 0000 steel wool, very fine bronze wool,  plastic scrub pads that will not scratch glass, and other super abrasive plastic media.  Organic (woody) scrubbing media have the tendency of absorbing water and can become soft.  Some types of crushed/powderized  nut shells and other similar materials are more prone to this problem than others.

I hesitate in mentioning any of the organic or mineral acids that will not readily etch glass surfaces or titanium dioxide low e coated surfaces.  Although it is true that they do exist.  You can either call, text, or email me for some direct answers to this question.  But I will always suggest that you perform the tests yourself.  These tests also are good for the alkalies such as sodium or potassium hydroxide.  The greatest problem is that because glass has many chemical "reaction sites" on the surface damage can easily result.  If other conditions are present at the time that these chemicals are used.  Nonetheless it is true that there are certain times when certain liquid organic solvents, mineral acids, and alkaline liquids with a pH above 7;...can be safely used.

To substantiate my point here all I have to do is site a very well known scientific fact that pure water with a pH of 7 is known to etch glass under the right conditions.  One of my most interesting statements by Paul Duffer was that, "Glass surfaces are alive.".  Meaning that a glass surface is always chemically active.  It is always changing dependent on time, temperature, and humidity. 

I always advise never using chemicals like sulfuric acid, ammoniumbifluoride, and hydrofluoric acid.  Even in very low concentrations.  With a water fed pole or trad work.

My goal here is to create a group of window cleaning professionals worldwide that can double as consultants to the building and other industries.  Called IGSA.  This is something I have given a great deal of thought to.  Along the way I have met up with many incredible people.  Which I am certain will jump on such an opportunity.  The best way to make it happen I am thinking now is to help them and others do the work that will help them hands on to acquire the knowledge and experience needed to become members of such a group.

I will begin by starting a series of papers called the IGSA Tests and Standards.  It will end when I end.  But hopefully it will help to form a small group of professional window cleaning consultants who will lead our industry in a direction where we will be more respected for our expertise.  And stop these lawsuits that have been formed against us because of what others have done.

IGSA Tests will be available right here on this blog totally free.  The first one is called, "Testing Mineral Acids for Glass Surface Safety;...The Five Tests".

Write me with any questions.

henrygrover222@gmail.com

Hope you enjoy!

Written by  Henry Grover Jr.

Email Me!

6034989474

Forensic WC Hidden Scratches

Screens hide a multitude of sins!  They hide scratches, and other damage.  Dirt and hard water spots/mineral deposits also hide scratches.  So when you remove the screens and clean the window scratches that were there before you can become quite visible.  Whenever we clean we must be on the lookout for this kind of damage.  If it is revealed it should be immediately brought to the attention of the person that hired us and is responsible.  This will help to avoid any lawsuits.  It also puts the window cleaning on a higher level.  We become at that moment inspection professionals.  Any further damage that we find can be made note of and identified should anything more become of it.

If we are called on to identify the cause of the scratches the first step that I would take is to inspect the "clean" glass surface.  Is it scratch sensitive or not.  If it is I will look more closely at the pattern of the scratches.  If they are mostly up and down I will get the permission of the owner to try to cause more but in the opposite direction.  If a razor was used you might use the same or a similar razor.  I will never forget a consulting job I was called into where the contractor had blamed a window cleaner.  Claiming that he had used a razor on the window which scratched.  So I checked for the sound of embedded particles and discovered there were many large particles.  At this point I had little hope.  But the pattern was only in one direction.  So I took out the razor and with the permission of the contractor tried very hard to make more scratches in the opposite direction.  I tried very hard.  But no scratches appeared!  The window cleaner was cleared.  Now I also remember another concern I was called into.  Unfortunately it didn't go so well.

The most important matter to understand here is that scratches can be easily hidden.  Even scratches that the homeowner could never see before because they were so slight that when the screens were put back on they became completely invisible.  If you were to use the wrong chemical to remove a light film of mineral deposits it will etch the scratches and magnify them to the point where they become VERY visible.  Screens on or not.  And especially in the direct sun.  Acids such as hydrofluoric, sulfuric, hot phosphoric, or ammoniumbifluoride.  Never use any of these chemicals on glass under any circumstances.  Or you will reveal scratches that were left behind and hidden for many years.  EVERY TIME!

Be a forensic window cleaner.  Use your eyes on every window.  Always look carefully AT the glass.  Not through the glass like our customers.  Defy all possible lawsuits.

Henry

Forensic Window Cleaning Defeats Lawsuits

How many times have you cleaned a window only to discover damage that someone else had left behind?  Which made you wonder whether you might be blamed?  Unfortunately this is a very common problem that we all have to face at some time or another.  I have had to face it myself.

The first step towards a solution is realizing that our customers will never understand what we know about surface damage.  No matter how much we explain it to them.  Even when such damage is revealed.  In my case it was a friend and lifelong customer who blamed me for scratches left by my squeegee blade.  Ultimately they gave in to the situation realizing that I had to know way more than they did.

The next step comes by explaining to them that there are actually a multitude of different kinds of surface damage that can be revealed by a very simple cleaning.  Evan if it is the first cleaning (post construction) of new glass.  Also that we are the best professional to identify if there is damage and what exactly is the source or cause of such damage.

The third step is to be able to accurately identify any damage and be able to intelligently explain to them the damage and the cause.  Such that we could do the same in court if that became necessary.  We must be able to defend ourselves in order to preserve our company.  This requires a complete understanding and full knowledge of the matter at hand.

This third step is what I would like to help you with.  So that you will be adequately prepared.  To do this I will be writing a series of consecutive posts on this subject of "Forensic Window Cleaning".  There will be micrographs of scratches, etched glass, seal failure of low e IG units, and other assorted creatures.  Also different tests that can be performed on new window glass along with the window surfaces in question.  

I have made use of this practice over the years to save window cleaners from huge losses.  Some of these tests are very simple, but very powerful.  They can prove beyond any doubt that you are not responsible.  Of course someone was.  Usually it is another subcontractor that worked under the builder at the time of construction.  Who is long gone no one even knowing who they were.  

 

Happy Abstract Art

 I have another business I thought I should tell you about.  Recently I have got into creating art.  It is called Pour Painting.  I have links listed on www.happyabstractart.blogspot.com which you can follow on the YouTube to watch how it is done.  You can also view many of the works I have been showing at libraries and galleries/restaurants.  Scroll down and check them out.  Here below is one my wife did which I call Dragon Wings.  If you would like a custom work done for your office or home just let me know.  Another alternative would be to create something yourself.  My goal is to teach others how to do the same thing for themselves and family.  Or even sell if they chose!  More than anything however is the fun you can have doing it!

Henry Grover Jr.

henrygrover222@gmail.com